Originally Posted by madwi I actually saw your post of DIY and went looking for your thread here I'm bummed that the suggestion is -- even with using the 4100NEX
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09-24-2015, 06:41 PM | #31 (permalink) | |
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Does anyone have any direct feedback from usage in our Z's on this?? Suggestion is to keep stock speakers and run them with the 4100NEX... |
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09-24-2015, 08:12 PM | #32 (permalink) |
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Save up your get the components you need or just stick with oem everything. If you are buying a quality head unit why would you run it at less than optimal. That would be like getting a twin turbo set up and running without any boost...
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09-24-2015, 08:36 PM | #33 (permalink) | |
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That being said, were you agreeing that aftermarket components aren't a wise choice if not using an amp -- even with an aftermarket head unit like the 4100?? |
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09-24-2015, 08:52 PM | #34 (permalink) |
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Yup, you got to push power through speakers to make them work optimally, just as a turbo pushes air through the intake system to make power.
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09-24-2015, 09:14 PM | #35 (permalink) |
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Madwi and I have Lanzer door speakers, they cheap and sound awesome. You may want checkout this thread anyone interested in replacing door speakers but.....
Also, we both have Alpine MVR-F300 4 channel amp. It is small and can be placed under the seat if you want to conceal it. Also, it is digital so heat build up is not an issue. I hope this helps.
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09-24-2015, 10:31 PM | #36 (permalink) | |
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09-24-2015, 11:07 PM | #37 (permalink) |
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Good deal and good luck with your upgrade.
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09-27-2015, 10:20 PM | #38 (permalink) |
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Thanks -- appreciate the feedback. The more time I spend reading and everything, if I'm going to have the dash open in everything -- maybe it makes sense to at least add an amp to the system when doing all this work??
If I do ultimately decide to add an amp, it will still be *without* a sub. Just not going to give up what little cargo space our cars have. That being said -- if I get a decent 2 channel or 4 channel amp (to run bridged) -- I will be able to get a lot more out of an after market set of components correct?? |
09-27-2015, 10:25 PM | #39 (permalink) | |
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09-28-2015, 07:40 AM | #41 (permalink) |
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I don't have the tools or the skills of BoneZ either. So for a sub I'm considering a kicker hideaway, or Kenwood ksc-sw11 behind the seat. I'm not expecting the performance of something like what BoneZ did, but it looks to be a fairly easy and inexpensive way to add a little more lows.
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09-28-2015, 11:51 PM | #42 (permalink) | |
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At the end of the day it's your car and by all means you should do whatever you want with it, but you will never regret running those wires even if you ultimately don't use them. On the other hand, if you decide to run an amp at some point in the future you will be kicking yourself for not doing this the first time around. |
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09-29-2015, 06:54 AM | #43 (permalink) | |
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Which channel(s) did you run the RCAs off the head unit? Sent from my Moto X using Tapatalk |
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09-29-2015, 09:40 AM | #44 (permalink) | |
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09-29-2015, 04:17 PM | #45 (permalink) | |
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For this build I was installing my amp from the get go and thus ran my lines to my chosen location (the narrow space in the hatch directly behind the parcel shelf is excellent for amps with a smaller footprint). For those who are unsure if they even want to add an amp or undecided on where to ultimately locate the amp you can leave the connections under the parcel shelf to avoid unsightly wires. It's snug but I found in my first Z that you can tuck a surprising amount of cabling into this space. You can also gain access to this area by prying up the floors of the parcel shelf with a small flat head screwdriver. The floors are held in place with a couple clips that pop right out. From there you can run the wires to either the hatch or under/behind the seat down the road. Getting the wires to this location from the HU is straightforward when you already have the dash apart the first time...there is ample room to run wires through the center console tunnel. If/when you decide to install an amp at a later date you don't need to rip your dash apart again...all you have to do is run your power cabling, and this can be accomplished without touching the dash. |
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