Advice for speaker/sub/amp selection
 

Hello,

Well I just picked up my Z (base + sport) last night :happydance:

I got the base model planning to replace the stereo system. I'm planning to go with a Kenwood DNX6140 HU but have no idea what components, sub, and amp to go with. I had an IS350 (non-ML) before and was pretty happy with the stock sound system. So I'm not looking for anything crazy. I listen to a wide range of music; rap, pop, alternative, etc.

For components I would like to be able to use the stock locations without major modifications since I'm on a lease and will need to go back to stock after. For sub I'm planning to get a Zenclosure, probably 10" just due to cost for sub/amp. For amp I would prefer to just get one amp to make it easier to mount and install.

As for budget I would like to spend no more then $750 for the components, sub, and amplifier. I wouldn't mind spending less either. I have no brand preference really. And the cost of the box, wires, etc will be separate.

Any advice on speaker/sub/amp selection would be appreciated! I can just pick them randomly but would like people with more experience to help me out in this dept. Thanks!


TJ

With that budget here is what I would I would recommend: (These prices are taken from an Major Authorized Online Car/Home Audio comapany)

Option 1 would definitly get you into the game of high performance car audio. I recommend a single 12 vs a 10. You wont regret this, a 12 will deliver excellent sq and devestating spl in this car on modest power. The JL Audio 12W0V2 is by far the best performing/sounding sub for the price! Plus you can get a nice JL mesh grill to protect it.

Option1:
Alpine SPR-17S $250.00
Alpine MRP-F300 - $200.00
JL Audio 12W0v2- $112.00
Total - $562.00

Option2 will give you more power and dynamics and the focal speakers are just awesome. The lowest end (Access) Focal's sound and perform as good or better than most manufactures high end speakers. They are extreamly efficent so they dont need much power to get loud!

Option 2: (Better Amp and component speakers)
Focal Access 165 A1 $300.00
JL Audio G4500- $350.00
JL Audio 12W0v2- $112.00
Total - $762.00

For an enclosure I recommend the Zenclosures is the best pre-fab box out there and very reasonable.

Thanks for the tip! I'll take a look at your recommendation. Question regarding amp I don't need a Class D amp for this setup? I'm not really sure on details of why a Class D is better then Class A/B but just know that it is :)

I would stay away from JL not because they are junk just because they are way over priced for what you get from them. Also on your budget there is better stuff you can get for your money. Sorry 2fast4thelaw just voicing m opinion. Also I think 750 is stretching it a bit I would say 1000 is a good price range.
Well you asked for my recommendations so here they are.

Amp
The only reason I selected this amp is because of its size and the power it can produce. The other amps are alternatives to this one
PDX-5 - Alpine 5 Ch 600 Watt Digital Power Amplifier PDX5

PA250.2 - Polk Audio 2 Ch 250 Watt Amplifier

TRX2.550 - Soundstream 2 Ch 550 Watt Amplifier

16-MCA150 - Memphis 75 x 2 ClassAB Full Range Amplifier

Sub Amp

BXi-608 - Hifonics 1 Ch 600 Watt Brutus Amplifier

BXI 610 - Hifonics 600W Class A/B Mono Amplifier

ZX500.1 - Kicker 500W 1 Channel Amplifier

Sub
SR124DVC - Polk Audio 12" 1400 Watt Dual 4 Ohm Subwoofer

This one I recommend if you are just looking for some bass and nothing precise
07CVT12-4 - Kicker 12" 800 Watt 4 Ohm Subwoofer CVT12

And this being my personal favorite
IDQ12V2.D4 - Image Dynamics 12" IDQ Dual 4 Ohm Subwoofer

Speakers
Budget
MM6501 - Polk Audio 6.5" Component Speaker System

165A1 - Focal Access 6.5" 2 Way Component Speakers

CSX 265 - Rainbow Dream CSX 6.5" 2-Way Component System

Higher End
SPX-17REF - Alpine 6.5" Type-X Series Component Set

XS-65 - Image Dynamics 6.5" 2 Way Component System

SR6500 - Polk Audio 6.5" 2 Way Component System with External Crossover

Now with all this you can find a budget by choosing different things. My personal opinion would be to buy a part at a time of the better quality stuff. I am a personal fan of Image Dynamics and practically swear by there products. You know to reach me if you would like some additional help selecting parts. SORRY THIS LIST TOOK ME SO LONG I HAD TO THINK BEFORE SELECTING EACH PART.

Class d's are recommended for sub but they are not needed. They just run cooler than a/b amps.

Thanks bigaudiofanat! :tup:

I'll take a look at all the above recommendations and figure something out! :)

bigaudiofanat, the install you did where you mounted the alpine amp behind the driver seat did you drill into the panel to mount it?

I'm liking the Focal Access 165A1 and IDQ combination. Why the recommendation for the 5-channel amp though? I'll only be needing 3 channels seems like it's a waste but oddly enough the Alpine PDX-5 is cheaper then the PDX-4.150.

To answer both your questions one I drilled a small pilot hole and used screw with some "bite" to hold the amp there. If I had more time I would have removed the panel and bolted it to that area. Also I recommended the 5 channel amp because the 4 channels can be bridged to produce more power threw 2 channels.

hmm... drilling isn't an option for me since i'm leasing at least somewhere that visible. i'll figure something out when i get the amp in hand.

regarding the amp. wouldn't that be too much power though? say i get the PDX5 and the focal access 165A1, unbridge the amp is producing 75w RMS while the speakers are only rated 60w RMS. this goes along with a general question i have regarding RMS ratings. do i want to match up the RMS ratings of components/sub to the amp as closely as possible? or how does that really work/matter?

That is why there is a gain knob on 98% og amps so you can control how much power is sent to them. I always say better to have more power than less. Also try putting the amps under the seat. Also the amp will never get to the RMS unless the volume is at full tilt.

Is it feasable or worthwhile to buy a set of these speakers to simply swap out the stockers (without getting a new amp/sub/head-unit) just for some better sound-quality?

The polk MM series yes the others would sound better with more power but that is almost any speaker.

Focal underates thier power rating big time!. If they say 60 watts, you can safely double that and you will be fine. Like i said before about Focal, thier are extreamly efficient and will not need a lot of power.

For simplicity sake and cost savings I recommend a single amplifier. You dont need a 5 channel amp. A 4 channel properly configured will be adequate. Also Class - D amps are more efficent and will be easier on your electrical system. Most people dont realize that a car audio amp will quickly destroy your battery and alternator if its drawing more current then it can support.

I would not exceed 600 watts rms total in this car without changing your battery or you will be replacing it in a year or less.

Well 2 of the systems I have put in exceeded 600 watts RMS. Also I use to have a true 1000 watt rms amp and a 60 X 4 amp in my car and the only upgrade was a auto zone alternator. I think the z can handle way more than 600 watts. I am thinking around 950 is were you should start worrying a bit.