Annoying rattling sound inside driver door
 

When i play music there is a very annoying rattling sound coming from inside the door panel. Wondering if anyone has had this problem before and how to fix it :confused: Dont want to take the door panel off but i think im going to have to

Looks like your removing a door panel. Takes about 3 minutes. With practice, less than 1 minute. Pry up on window control panel at bottom edge, disconnect harness. Pry out small panel in front of door handle, remove 10mm bolt. pry out small access panel below door handle near center of door, remove 2 10mm bolts. Grab edges of panel, and pull off gently. pop 2 door control cables out of brackets. Done. Find and fix rattle. Easy peasy

sounds easy enough ha

Hey bro I'm from Martinsburg WV. You ever go out to dual Highway on the weekends?

I have that problem. Does yours go away when the window is slightly down?

If so, it's probably the window regulator

no i dont go to the dual. yeah it goes away when it is cracked

mine is more of a squeeky noise coming from the drivers lower door area. Also a rattle/vibrating noise behind my left ear (think it might be the seat belt hinge thingy).

mine is coming from inside the door panel for sure. Ill have to take my panel off one weekend when it gets warmer out to see if something is loose

Same issue here, took my door panel off and tightened some bolts, helped but still have minor rattle at times.

I agree about the window regulator, which i did not access, it is behind a removable metal panel i assume.

....Is this something that can be tightened down or adjusted, or is the fix a new window regulator?

thanks

I have the same problem... if I just barely tap the window down button, it goes away. (and I mean barely touch it, as in the window will still do the up/down when you open/close the door, I do it almost every time I get in the Z.) I've tried adjusting the height of the window (the 2 bolts that secure that window on the regulator) but it doesn't matter.. it's the actual regulator, apparently the cushion at the top wears out. When it warms up I'm going to take it apart and try putting a small piece of foam there and see if it fixes the issue, since the actual regulator isn't broken or worn out I don't think its worth spending the $$ to replace the whole thing..

Yep, same as mine. Gonna get the dealer to replace the regulator again...

Need to replace a rubber washer on the window guides inside the inner door frame.

Pics or diagram?

Nope I read in the forums some were. Sorry.

Regulator:shakes head::shakes head:

Dealer won't replace it

I have the same problem. I'm still looking for a fix without having to dismantle the whole door although that seems to be the only option.

Check this forum and scroll down for the explanation.

http://www.the370z.com/370z-technica...de-door-3.html

Hey guys, I have had this issue before and again now, just so yall know, you have to replace your Window Regulator Unit to fix this rattle issue.

figured i would follow up here since this thread helped me a lot. as GalletGun stated, it is the window regulator.

first dealer i went to said basically screw you. next dealer i went to went ahead and replaced the window regulator under warranty (they replaced the outer "frame" of the regulator, not the motor). this fixed the problem.

Thanks!

I had the same issue....but i will say that the door hasn't been quite the same since, at first door glass was off, took the car back and they fixed it but just doesn't seem right, so be warned it seems that they have to re-adjust the glass and chances are its not going to be 100% the same way as it was from factory.

Agreed. They have to reprogram the partial lower/raise that occurs when the door is opened/closed. Now mine does hit the top a little harder than it did stock


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YES I JUST REALIZED THAT TODAY. Spent 2 hours looking for it and couldn't find it

So I just seemingly just fixed my passenger door rattle. I found 3 10mm bolts just chilling at the bottom of the door near the weep holes. They didn't look used. Removed the speaker to get better look. Two were visible. Last one I used my inspection camera to find. Then sent it back in on a rescue mission with a magnet. It fixed door vibration problem for sure but not sure if that cured another mystery rattle I cant pin down its location. BTW Skrillex "rock n roll" worked quite well to duplicate the door issue. :D I kinda want to mail the 3 bolts to the factory in Japan with a "someone might be looking for these" note. 2011 370z sport touring 40k

Had same issue & dealer finally found a creative fix that worked
 

Well as it has been mentioned, the window rattle on the drivers door can return and has been an ongoing issue for some. This typically happens when the window is fully in the up position and disappears when slightly cracked.

The dealership was as frustrated as I was with this problem returning so quickly so a new regulator was ordered after several more attempts to stop the noise were unsuccessful. Long story short, the new regulator would have also rattled away & it has to do with the way it has been designed in it's mounting points. It is secured with one mounting screw but the other mounting point is done by using a rivet. This is where the problem arises. SO... with a bit of creative thought, some foam was placed in between that area to prevent that noise created due to the weak contact point using a rivet that can not be properly tightened. This was the explanation I recently got and it seems to be correct. The rattle is totally gone and I don't believe it will ever return now. Such a PITA noise for such a simple cure! Anyways, I hope this information will help others that may run into this issue. Regards Forum Members...:driving:

Replacement door regulator may creat new issues
 

I had this work done at my local dealership and in my situation the glass was way off in positioning afterwards as well. So far off that it was distorting my window rubber seal. The 2nd attempt was good but then clips and other things were damaged & another trip was needed. I also agree that 100% same functionality may not be possible as it was assembled at the factory but mine is totally acceptable again now. OR... Maybe this techs at the dealerships just rush the jobs and just don't pay attention to detail like they should!:eek:

I did have to do a Window Reset myself later on. The glass was failing to lower very intermittently. That's been OK since the reset.:tiphat:

did you take pics by chance.

Need to show this thread to my dealer before my warranty runs out.

Would it be possible to remove the rivets (drill/chisel/grind) and replace with screwed fasteners?

Tis exactly what I did.

No pictures. Just the information passed on from my service writer as described by his service technician.

I thought I was going crazy when I heard this rattle. Same fix for me... crack the window.

If I attempt the foam fix, I'll post the procedure in the DIY section.

Did you ever attempt the foam fix and make the DIY procedure? If so, could you link to it? If anybody else sees this and knows of a DIY guide, please advise! My window regulator has the infamous rattle but my Z is out of warranty now so it's either DIY or SOL

I wanted to provide some input on this because even my 2017 Z with less than 10K miles started to have the infamous window rattle. I was able to narrow it down to what appears to be a device that keeps tension on the cable used to drive the window up and down. It a spring loaded device with a 2 piece toothed ratchet mechanism.

When the window is moved upward, slack is created in the cable at the tensioner location and the spring keeps tension on the cable. When the window is moved downward the ratchet engages and allows precise movement of the window without letting the spring compress.

When the window is rolled all the way up pressure is removed from the ratchet gear and since it is free floating in there its loose and starts to rattle. I think this is more pronounced as the cable stretches which may be why a new regulator doesn't rattle but not long after will start to rattle. As soon as you start to move the window back down the ratchet re-engages and the noise goes away.

I ended up removing the ratchet piece of the gear entirely to get rid of the rattle. Alternatively you might be able to pack the inside of the mechanism with a thick grease to prevent the gear from rattling. Removing the ratchet in theory would make the down movement of the window less precise since the first initial movement of the regulator motor would be used to compress the spring, but I haven't seen any noticeable difference and the window still moves down and out of the way quickly when opening the door.

Its easy to take the tensioner apart, simply compress the spring and then undo the cable from the pulley marked with the green arrow. Once the tension is relieved from the cable the tensioner will come apart and you can remove the gear piece or coat it with heavy grease.

You will of course need to remove the glass and the regulator assembly to get to this since its behind the big metal panel in the door.

Hopefully this is helpful for someone. If anyone else can figure out a better way to prevent the free floating ratchet from rattling please chime in.

appreciate the update. i can't see removing the glass and doing all that. i've done timing belts and stuff back in the day but the rattle just isn't annoying me enough at this point.

what about putting some sort of thin solid rubber tubing in the top of the window rack (i.e. where the upper edge of the glass fits into when the window is closed)

it would prevent the window from going all the way up but would still close enough to keep water out..... thoughts?



do you have to split the 2 metal sides of the door in order to get the glass out?

The glass is not that hard to get out. There is a bolt that goes through the rear bottom of the glass and then a clamp that you loosen on the front bottom of the glass, then it slides out. Its easier if you remove the felt strip on the inside side of the top of the door since it will leave a bigger gap for the window to come out. The felt piece is just pressed into place.

If you dont want to take the window out you can reach into the speaker opening of the door after taking the speaker mount out and feel for the plastic tensioner piece. I think if you wedged a firm block of foam between it and the metal panel it would probably get rid of the noise. You will need some skinny arms though.

I wouldn't put anything at the top since if you dont let the window close all the way you might damage the regulator and it wont seal the rain out.

Here are some more pictures I took while doing the passenger side.

I wish it was easy peasy. Took inside door panel off. Wiring. Insulated. Tied things together. No obvious rattle or anything loose. Used black silicone to help hold all the plastic buttons in place. Everything that was even remotely loose was stabilized. Its either inside the door or related to whatever moves the window up or down or something else. It sound like if you were to cups your hands together and shake two or three bottle caps. More plastic than metallic. SO annoying. :confused:

The Worst Issue with my Z
 

I have been having this rattle for the past few months now, and it is beginning to become unbearable. I wish there was a video tutorial on this process, as I don’t have the mechanical skills and ability to do it myself, and fix anything if it goes wrong. I’ve heard that you can misalign the window and never have it roll up completely or correctly, and that you can break the whole system that rolls the window up. I’m sure Nissan would charge me a fortune if I attempted to go to the stealership.

I just replaced my drivers side regulator to cure the rattle. Not a super hard job. Just spent some time getting the window aligned after reassembly. After some of these comments I will take another look at the one I took out. I assumed the problem was some play in the track from all the up/downing every time you open the door. The part itself wasn’t that expensive. $133 shipped to me. There are aftermarket ones too. Not much price difference though.