Help needed - Door won't open

[cv129]

I've been at it for about a week now. Before taking drastic measure of cutting the interior door panel to gain access to the inside mechanism, I am hoping to borrow from the collective wisdom.

Symptoms - driver door doesn't open, from inside or outside. Locks and unlocks, can actually see the interior lock button going back and forth. Ear on the interior door card, I can hear the distinct sound of locking and unlocking.

Tools I have - slim-jim, self improvised metal J hook, slim bendable pick-up tool, micro string lights (squeeze thru tight spot and light up inside the door), air pump wedges...


What I've tried - 1) a procedure similar to window reset, 2) insert and turn physical key, 3) tucked and pulled on that silver wire that links to the door handle (I think OG Sirnxalot did this method). I tried #3 with the passenger door twice, and opened it with ease. No luck with driver door.

[cv129]

Must be this then

[cooltoy]

Did it work?

[cv129]

Originally Posted by cooltoy

Did it work?

Don’t know, not able to get to that spot directly with door stuck closed. But that’s gotta be the part that has failed.

[cv129]

This gives me hope. Removing the inner window seal is key, 10x better vision. Gonna go buy me a super long and slim flat head. Something long and stiff.....

[cooltoy]

Originally Posted by cv129

Something long and stiff.....

Too easy. I am not biting.

[cv129]

fcuk me.....

Rubber mallet and 22 in long flat head, I was able to break the actuator casing like that guy did (post #5). I can literally see that plastic lever/links moving when I lock and unlock. That ain't it.

Sprayed an excessive amount of lithium grease around the area, hopefully it can reach whatever spot that has a little rust preventing whatever from doing it's job....

[ZoomZ]

Lithium grease spray is not great for loosening or penetrating. Its good for lubrication and rust prevention. It will actually dry up before it penetrates.

Kroil (prefered) or PB Blaster will do a much better job.

https://www.kroil.com/product/kroil-...rokroil-ks102/

Once you get the proper penetrant, use your long screw driver or coat hanger and place tip near the area you want to soak.

Then carefully spray enough fluid on the rod to let fluid flow down into area that is not accesible. Good luck.

[cv129]

Originally Posted by ZoomZ

Lithium grease spray is not great for loosening or penetrating. Its good for lubrication and rust prevention. It will actually dry up before it penetrates.

Kroil (prefered) or PB Blaster will do a much better job.

https://www.kroil.com/product/kroil-...rokroil-ks102/

Once you get the proper penetrant, use your long screw driver or coat hanger and place tip near the area you want to soak.

Then carefully spray enough fluid on the rod to let fluid flow down into area that is not accesible. Good luck.

Thanks. Still no bueno. I just dropped the car off at the body shop. May really need to damage the door card to get to the spot needed. It’s beyond my comfort level at this point.

Bought a re-man actuator unit, now shopping for a 15 and up Nismo door card just in anticipation.

We are too old for climbing in and out via passenger side.

[Tractionless]

Originally Posted by ZoomZ

Lithium grease spray is not great for loosening or penetrating. Its good for lubrication and rust prevention. It will actually dry up before it penetrates.

Kroil (prefered) or PB Blaster will do a much better job.

Not for this application due to the lack of access but CRC Freeze Off spray trumps ANY penetrating agents I've used in the past 30+ years of wrenching.

Unfortunately I only found it a few years ago, give it a try next time in place of your typical go-to's!