Nissan 370Z Forum - View Single Post - DIY: EVO-R Foglight Install

Svre46 · 02-19-2011, 11:02 AM

I just wanted to post 3 things:

1) The instructions in my kit actually show the factory orange wire as being the brake (it’s really reverse). My brake wire was green but I hear some people have instructions that say the brake wire is green unlike the ones that were included with my fog.

2) Use a torch on the back of the factory dummy light. I held it for about ten seconds and the nuts came off super easy. Before I heated it they would just turn in the housing as discussed before due to loctite. Don’t worry about scorching the little black plastic bracket the factory one fits into. (A) You will never see it, and (B) it is removed once you install the light since the EVO-R light sticks on with double sided 3m tape and is not bolted to it. Install took about a half hour with the exhaust out. I did this when installing my CBE. Fog light is by far one of the coolest little exterior upgrades. The LEDs accent the rear lights perfectly

3) Lower voltage to the LEDs worked on my bench supply. I ran 6volts to the light. I know the current draw would be double at 6 volts so hopefully the internal resistors to the LEDs are a high enough wattage. I only did this for a few seconds to test. I have not taken a light apart to do any modifications since I wanted mine to flash when I hit the brake anyways. This is a good idea to look into and if you could open up the housing. I’m sure the board could be easily modified to a larger wattage resistor to handle the higher current draw with running a lower voltage. Most LEDs illuminate at 3v. The 12-14v source from our cars will go to a resistor on the led matrix (this is inside the fog) which drops the voltage down to 3-4v. If you gave them 6volts that same resistor would then drop the led voltage down to 1.5-2 roughly with a higher current draw (which is why you may need a larger wattage resistor internally). This would allow you to provide 6volts when you have the lights on the 12v when you hit brake (will be brighter). You can do the switching with a transitor or relay. Diode isolate your sources.

02-19-2011, 11:02 AM	#35 (permalink)
Svre46 Base Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Bartlett, IL Posts: 170 Drives: 15' GTR Rep Power: 22	I just wanted to post 3 things: 1) The instructions in my kit actually show the factory orange wire as being the brake (it’s really reverse). My brake wire was green but I hear some people have instructions that say the brake wire is green unlike the ones that were included with my fog. 2) Use a torch on the back of the factory dummy light. I held it for about ten seconds and the nuts came off super easy. Before I heated it they would just turn in the housing as discussed before due to loctite. Don’t worry about scorching the little black plastic bracket the factory one fits into. (A) You will never see it, and (B) it is removed once you install the light since the EVO-R light sticks on with double sided 3m tape and is not bolted to it. Install took about a half hour with the exhaust out. I did this when installing my CBE. Fog light is by far one of the coolest little exterior upgrades. The LEDs accent the rear lights perfectly 3) Lower voltage to the LEDs worked on my bench supply. I ran 6volts to the light. I know the current draw would be double at 6 volts so hopefully the internal resistors to the LEDs are a high enough wattage. I only did this for a few seconds to test. I have not taken a light apart to do any modifications since I wanted mine to flash when I hit the brake anyways. This is a good idea to look into and if you could open up the housing. I’m sure the board could be easily modified to a larger wattage resistor to handle the higher current draw with running a lower voltage. Most LEDs illuminate at 3v. The 12-14v source from our cars will go to a resistor on the led matrix (this is inside the fog) which drops the voltage down to 3-4v. If you gave them 6volts that same resistor would then drop the led voltage down to 1.5-2 roughly with a higher current draw (which is why you may need a larger wattage resistor internally). This would allow you to provide 6volts when you have the lights on the 12v when you hit brake (will be brighter). You can do the switching with a transitor or relay. Diode isolate your sources. __________________ 2015 GTR Premium DD 2016 BMW X1 Wife's Last edited by Svre46; 02-19-2011 at 11:06 AM.