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Then 85% would be akin to taking away 15% fuel?
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If the ECU is going into open loop fueling, then your right. You won't be able to see any correction being applied by the ECU. You'd have to compare the AFR called for, to AFR seen on the logs.
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I believe both to be the case.
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my AFR is way too rich. Any suggestions on where i can find some tuning material?
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Windex, I see you are scheduling +-22 at that AFR. Do you have any modifications? What degrees of timing are you logging from ~5000-7500 rpms? Perhaps you want to take a look at your ignition map to see if the ECU is running off bounds.
If you wish you can begin modifying the A/F by setting your request in the fuel target maps. The stock map if I recall is looking for ~11.2:1 at WOT. As with the last few posts, I'm still debating weather or not the ECU operates in open loop at wot (looks to be the case). In which case you'll have to adjust the main fuel consumption maps. It is probably best to real-time tune using Cipher with a friend driving and 'spacebar' activated, or by yourself using Cipher datalogging compairing targets vs actual A/F. Tuning with a friend is much faster, easier, and more fun.
Has anybody come up with their own modest settings for ignition timing? I've got my car (stock) running about 27ish BTDC at high rpm wot. I've moved the timing up a little in most areas with decent effect, but its not really safe to do this without feedback.
The main thing/problem I see is there doesnt appear to be any way to monitor the engine's knock sensor with UpRev - which should only be used as a guide not a tuning point. I'd like to be at least several degrees away from a knock situation. I'm thinking of building something external which will observe engine knock such as a mic/meter or headphone equipment. There are companies which sell this type of thing, but I find UpRev has a basic schematic design in some of UpRev's user guides. I also fix high-powered car audio amplifiers and electronics so I might build something out of the following since I already have one of these.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062620
This is a battery powered amplifier used mainly for audio diagnostics. The purpose of this device is that it has a gain control that is absolutely rediculous (0.01v minimum gain which is absurdly inaudible through most amplifiers. This device will amplify 0.01v enough to blow it's own speaker out) which in term can amplifier even the faintest of signals to a blaring annoyance. The device itself is a valuble tool for my amplifier repair, and I'm thinking it might just be the trick for getting knocks to an amplifier/audible state for tuning.
I may be able to just tap this into the knock sensor and then wire it to inside of my car, but I'll need to observe the waveform of engine knock on my o-scope before I make something like this. This would come in handy even for dyno tuners.