Hey all, finally got my kick plates in and decided to write up a DIY since I didn't see one on here. Sorry about the lighting in some of the pics.
I'd give this project an overall difficulty of 2 out of 5. It took me about an hour or so to install.
Tools:
Scissors, clip removal tool or similar screwdriver, towel and rubbing alcohol.
Parts included in kit
Removing inner trim-piece
another shot of inner trim.
To remove this , gently pull up , from the top, between the weather stripping , closest to you..., NOT from the floor up. There's a part in the trim towards the middle and the floor that looks like a handle, do not pull up that way!
Work your fingers between the weather stripping and the trim and gently pry up. Start in the middle and work your way to the edges, there are 5 pawls connecting this to the car.
Next, remove outer kick-plate
You'll see the colors, red is a clip , requiring a clip removal tool or a standard screwdriver ( if using the screwdriver, wrap in a towel or something to protect your paint ) ; Yellow is a pawl , you can remove these without a tool.
The outer has 4 total items holding it on , 2 pawls in the center and 2 clips on the ends. Work your screwdriver, fingers, or removal tool in the middle and gently pull up, the 2 center pawls come up really easy. Now get your tool or screwdriver and push in on each end clip , releasing it and pulling the kick plate up and out.
Remove the inner, upper kick plate by unscrewing this "push nut" ( little black thing above foot rest ) and by gently pulling the piece out , towards the center console. This was really easy to remove, no force at all. There are two pawls, no tools required
piece removed.
Now remove passenger side pieces from your car with the same procedures as above...Pic included of passenger side "push nut" on the inner upper kick-plate. The passenger side is a little harder than the driver side, in my opinion.
Now that you have the passenger side apart, we're ready to start installing the T-Harness and routing the wires. On the passenger side, you'll notice the BCM , with numerous harnesses plugged into it. You need to pull the one outlined in blue. NOTE: I recommend getting a small screwdriver and prying this plug gently out from the side closest to you. The lock is on the bottom and there's a perfect little leverage area that works perfect. If you have small hands --disregard.
Plug the T harness ( female end) into the male end you just removed. Then plug the male end on the harness into where the factory one was at.Now get your urethane tape ( 4 pieces ) ready and zip ties ( one big and two small ) .
Cover the inline fuse with two pieces of tape and the t-harness connection that you plugged in. The next pic is how it should look taped and zip tied. Cut the zip tie ends off too. I left them on in the pic to demonstrate.
The inline fuse gets zip-tied to the wiring conduit too ( upper right of the harness) . Use the big tie for the harness plug. Use the other small tied closer to the door, There's another smaller conduit there.Time to run the wires. Longer wire goes to the driver side.
Remove another pushnut behind the passenger carpet, it's in the middle and about one inch down, then pull the carpet back and use four pieces of tape to secure this. Run the passenger wire too. I forgot to take pics of running the wire up the sides , but it's not too bad.
You can see in the below pics, that the carpet is hooked within the clips that hold the trim in. Pull this out gently ( carpet ) , revealing the conduit running down the car and the clips fully. You have to run the passenger wire down and connect these with a half piece of tape at the bottom of the clips, on the outside, facing the center console. make sure you don't cover the bottom part of the clip, otherwise the trim wont click back in right.
Remove the middle push nut on the drive side floor, towards the firewall and pull the carpet back towards you and get ready to route the incoming wire under the accelerator mounting bracket, under the carpet!
Here's where the fish tape comes in handy, you can do it by hand too.
You have to run the driver side wire behind the dash, from the passenger side. I used the spot behind the floor vents, they're about in the same spot on both sides and there's a slight gap there. Once it's routed though, run it under the accelerator bracket and under the foam footrest and tape like below. Use the same process for running the wire down the side after you have it secured on the floor. Use two zip ties , securing similar to the other side. Almost there.
now it's time to test the fruit of your labor. Plug them in and test while everything is still apart. If it's good, start re-installing everything in reverse order. Carpet, pushnuts, and inner upper kick plates and illuminated kick plates. Remove a clip from the bag and insert into the kick plate bottom, Notice that sticky tape has taken the spot of on of the clips on each side. Clean the paint over where the kick goes with alcohol before you snap this piece in, remember to remove the brown strip covering the tape. Install the same way you removed and press down firmly over the tape part. Almost done
you need to split another piece of provided tape in half, remove the weather stripping , by pulling up and taping the flange or ridge in the middle and running the wire over the tape and taping again . After the wire is over on the inside of the car now, use a full piece of tape on the harness and neatly bunch the wires and zip tie and put the weather stripping back on
Now all you have to do is put the inner trim back on and you're done.
