Quote:
Originally Posted by Totus44
I've got a good dealer too. I was the first logged case in SoCal, so they basically did the short block experiment on my Z. Following the manual break-in (<4000 rpm) for 1500 mi and then jumped on it forced the short block failure in a few days. That then triggered a full engine replacement which I understand is now the prescribed treatment since field techs have zero experience on the 37 engine. For my trouble and their learning curve, Nissan reimbursed me for every day of shop time, about 2 months of car payments.
I think it's unnecessary to get into p!ssing matches over check your oil/fluids. For many people, they buy a new car and they service their car with their dealer as per the manual. If you're constantly topping off and you don't keep good notes, when you bring it in for service you may not know there's a problem with your seals unless you are looking for it.
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So your new short block failed? I'm guessing it was a bearing/rod big end failure. From some stupid tech getting grit or dirt in the block, or failing to COMPLETELY clean the cylinder heads before bolting them on a new engine. Your average mechanic is just an imbecile that shouldn't even consider touching the insides of an engine, that's just the cold hard truth. An engine needs to be assembled with surgical cleanliness, be it a pre-assembled short block, or from scratch. They probably built it right their in the garage bays without even putting up plastic sheets around the build area and on the ground.
I'm glad you're getting a whole engine now; I really hope they don't manage to screw that up as well.
