Quote:
Originally Posted by Guard Dad
Ok. I did not put the crossover in the door, it's going in the kick panel to avoid water and for easier future access. I've got family stuff for the rest of the day so the crossover is on the floor for now. Now that I've done one door I expect the other to go a lot faster tomorrow. I gave the new speakers a quick test and the difference is significant. The missing low bass is now back, the boomy mid bass is gone and the high end is brighter. This has been a pain but it is going to be worth it. The system is more than adequate for my purposes but not even a starting point for a heavy metal fan.
I did have a problem identifying the positive speaker lead on the door speaker factory cable (I used this as my source cable). I got what appeared to be identical positive voltage (using a digital volt meter) on both leads when testing to ground. The system is above ground so I would normally expect to see one lead testing positive and one negative. How do you folks normally identify the positive and negative leads? I am trying to avoid phasing issues between the right and left channels.
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Actually the output to a speaker has an alternating sign wave from peak positive to peak negative this indicates A/C power so your meter would need to be on A/C to check amp outputs to speakers. The reason your reading the same on both leads is your only reading the positive part of the sign wave, when your meter is on DC voltage. So this won't help you figuring your positive amp output from your negative, unless you have a oscilloscope handy?
Your best option is identify the factory speaker terminals and match them up to the correct wire color. If you can not find a wire harness color code.