Oh and back on topic, after doing lots of reading on my own (Googling for hours, hitting all kinds of G37 threads and oil tech threads all over the net), I pretty much came to the same conclusion as semtex for my post-breakin oil setup: Motul 300V + K&N HP-1008. Motul was the best-quality/reputation synthetic oil I found that was definitely Ester based, and most of the oil filter data out there pretty much adds up to "Mobil1 and K&N have the same guts and they're the best commercial spin-on option available if you're willing to pay for them".
I'm still kinda undecided on which weight of Motul, but probably 5W30 given that we don't really get below-freezing weather here (well, once a year we get it for a few days by a few degrees, but not really).
Here's some other random oil stuff from all my Googling:
FilterMag - A reusable plastic half-shell that sticks to the outside of your oil filter, has a bunch of Neodymium magnets on it to trap ferrous particles as the oil comes into the filter (before the filter element). I figure worst case it keeps the big metal chunks from clogging the filter so much, but they claim it also traps a lot of tiny abrasive metal particles that filters will pass (in the single-digits of microns and below). The 250-series size fits our oil filters. I went with the RA250. I don't really understand what's up with the HP250 - it costs more and has less total magnet strength, and is considered the High Performance version. Perhaps it's just that the plastic shell is tougher or something.
And if you guys really want to get crazy, this is the kind of thing I was think of the other day in that other thread (re: pre-oilers):
AccuSump - With the right set of options and so-on, this acts as both a pre-oiler and an extra pressure sump. You give it power before cranking your cold engine, and it pre-loads pressurized oil up into the engine to prevent cold-start wear, and refills itself from your oil pump once pressure is up. Then when you're driving, if there's any sudden loss of oil pressure, a pressure-sensitive valve automatically opens and maintains pressure using the sump for a few seconds until your oil pump recovers (and then refills itself for the next hit). This happens if you corner or accel hard enough that the oil in the oilpan goes up the side wall and leaves the oil pump pickup tube sucking dry.
I'm not sure if I'm willing to go that far, but it's pretty cool stuff.