Quote:
Originally Posted by labk888
I just dived right in ... and jumped straight to a Flex; rather than a PC.
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The Flex is a good unit. However, it is not something I would give a novice to learn on because of all the trouble you can get into. It is also NOT the unit that you want to be using on your paint all the time. If you hve properly corrected your paint and practice proper paint maintenance practices, the Flex is overkill when doing touch-up work. I have 4 different polishers that I can choose from when working on cars. By far, the PC gets the most work because it removes the least amout of clear coat. Guys who use rotary polishers all the time are simply in this for the money. They grind on your clear without considering how much clear you have to start with. I would never use a rotary on a factory paint job and I would not use a Flex as my main unit on a factory paint job. You are just asking for trouble by doing this.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Meridian69
Junkman,
I am trying to understand how this all works, so please forgive any ingnorance on my part. By wetsanding the paint, it removes the scratch, but it also removes the clear coat as well. When do you get to the point that you have removed too much clear coat and you are on the paint itself?
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When you look at your paint thickness gauge and it says that you only have X amount of clear coat remaining. Sometimes I do it by feel, sometimes I make sure that I am measuring as I go. It depends on if it is a daily beater or a show car. It takes practice and feel, but the most important thing it takes is a paint thickness gauge.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Meridian69
By removing the clear coat, does it or can it leave the paint vunerable?
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Yes, and that is why you don't remove all, or close to all of the clear coat.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Meridian69
After you removed the clear coat down to the scratch, do you need to add a layer of clear coat back?
Thanks in advance
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If you remove too much clear, then yes. Again, that's why you don't remove it all or close to all of it. Your paint thickness gauge is what protects you from doing that.
Paint thickness gauges come in various degrees of expertise. Some will give you a overall reading, some will give you a reading of each individual layer. Guess which one is the best and cost more. The one for my car has to be able to take readings off fiberglass.
That sucker was not cheap! It also will break down the layers on my car. That is a must when you have a car that cost around $6000-$8000 to paint right. However, you can find gauges that are only $200.
Just remember, you get what you pay for.