That sounds good.
The expensive fluid won't lower temps as you know, but will have a higher b.p. So, you still may have an ABS sensor that gets excessively hot, and as you say, you will only be able to rule out fluid boiling as an individual cause.
Where are you pointing the air if not at the inside of the rotors? How far away is the outlet? Perhaps if you can point them towards the ABS sensor we can test the theory of sensor overheating as a cause.
The other one we need to test is differential wheel spin...
Quote:
Originally Posted by ResIpsa
After re-reading the Car and Driver article I am preparing a test to determine if it is boiling brake fluid that might be confusing the abs system.
On Friday I will be doing a track day at the Summit Point main circuit. Last time I ran Porterfield R4 full race compound with ATE super blue fluid and I experienced ice mode three times. I have made three changes to my brake system.
1. Castrol SRF brake fluid (at $80 per liter).
2. CarboTech XP10 pads up front and XP8 in the rear.
3. Home made brake cooling ducts from the fang inlets (however, they are not directly connected to the inside of the rotor).
I'll let you know how it goes on Saturday.
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