Nissan 370Z Forum - View Single Post - Detailing: Frequently Asked Questions, Useful Facts,Tips-Tricks, How to Articles etc

AK370Z · 05-10-2010, 09:44 AM

How to: Properly Clay your Car

Make sure you have thoroughly washed and dried your car prior to claying.

Cut the clay bar in half. Take the half and cut it into 15 equal pieces:

2 for the hood
2 for the roof
1 for the trunk lid
1 for the trunk rear and rear bumper
2 for the rear quarter panels (1 per side)
4 for the doors (1 per door)(if you have a sedan)
2 for the front fenders (1 per side)
1 for the front of the car

Take the piece and roll it in to a sphere. Take the sphere and flatten it out into a circle so that it covers the top third of your first two fingers. Spray the first section of the roof with quick detailer. Glide the clay across the area in a front to back motion applying some pressure. Work in 2x2 areas. If you feel your fingers going through the clay, then you are pushing too hard. If the clay is streaking on the paint, then you need more QD. While gliding, you should hear a slight noise and feel some resistance. This is the grit being lifted from the paint. When the resistance and noise stops, dry the QD off with a quality towel. Move onto the next 2x2 section and do the same thing. Once half the section is done, flip the clay over and do the other half of the section. Once the section has been completed throw the piece of clay away. It is too contaminated to use on another section. If you do use it, you will most likely put micro scratches in your clear.

Keep working your way down using each dedicated piece for its area. Flip the clay over when you have completed half a section. Throw the clay away when the section is done.

When complete your car should be as smooth as glass. The next steps should be to remove the swirls (if necessary), remove any hazing from polishing/bring out the full gloss, and seal in the rejuvenated finish with a wax or sealant.

More info posted by a forum member:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alexus

I've decided to post some of my tutorials here until a detailing section is created. Enjoy.

Introduction

I've recently received a few questions through PMs about clay bars. When should I clay bar my car? What's the right technique? How do I get those ugly swirl marks out of my paint? I've thus decided to slap together a comprehensive tutorial that explains how to restore your car's paint after a harsh winter or years of neglect. Older cars require more attention when it comes to restoring the paint, so if you've let yourself go for the last three or four years, this tutorial is the one for you.

Q: What are clay bars?

A: The clay bar is by no means a recent innovation. It has been around for a good while but has just recently been adapted to residential/amateur use; clay bars were, for a long time, limited to detailing shops and the likes.

It is important to understand that a car will spend nearly all its life outside, exposed to the elements, and be subjected to countless contaminants such as acid rains, dust, tar &c. These contaminants end up seeping deep into your paint and are impossible to remove by simply washing the car, even with the best soaps available on the market (while still remaining safe for your paint). With time, these contaminants will end up severely damaging your paint, rendering it vulnerable to iron deposits which can, with time, oxidize and spread throughout your vehicle like wildfire. A car that is contaminated will be vulnerable to this, even with the best of waxes.

The clay bar is by all means not a fix-all. There are some defects and swirls that only a compound will take out.

Q: How much do they cost and how long do they last?

A: A clay bar kit will cost you anywhere between $20 to $50 and will be good for four to five uses on the entire surface of your car. Seeing as it is recommended to clay bar your car at least once a year, at the end of winter, the bar should last you anywhere between four to five years. It's a good investment, to say the least.

Q:How do I know it's time to clay bar my car?

A: Several methods can be used to test your paint in order to determine if it's time to use a clay bar. The simplest one, I find, is to grab a plastic sandwich bag of the Ziploc variety (or any household brand, really), insert your hand into it and rub gently on the surface of your car. If the paint feels like sand paper on your plastic-covered fingertips, it's time to use a clay bar.

Q: How do I use a clay bar?

A: A clay bar treatment can be done following these seven tips, in combination with the instructions provided with the product.

1. Being the treatment by washing your car thoroughly. I recommend doing it twice to remove a maximum amount of contaminant sticking to the surface of your paint. This will make the job easier and less time-consuming, as well as preserve the life of your clay bar. If you clay bar a dirty car, you may harm the paint, so make sure you give her a thorough wash before you even think about rubbing her with a piece of clay.

2. Once washed and dried, take the clay bar and knead it with your fingertips until it is supple. Moisten the surface you are working on with detailing spray which comes with the clay bar; it will act as a lubricant. Working in small areas, one panel at a time, rub the bar lightly from left to right, up and down, following the lines of your car. Follow the separations between panels, never passing between the gaps with the bar. Never use a circular motion and make sure the area is properly lubricated at all times. Wipe down the section with a microfiber towel once you're done and move on to another panel.

3. Knead the bar every now and then, especially when you notice that it is getting dirty. The clay bar will pull out a lot of contaminants from your paint and failing to knead it may redeposit these contaminants.

4. You may use the clay bar on glass and plastic. Always make sure the surface is properly lubricated. If you run out of the detailing spray provided with the product, you may use soapy water.

5. Once you're done test the surface with the Ziploc bag again. The paint should be smooth beneath your fingertips. It is ready to receive a polish or a wax.

6. In order to keep the clay bar in working order, knead it and place it in a Ziploc bag, removing the air from it. Keep away from heat sources. You may also keep the clay bar in a small plastic container with water.

7. Your paint will not have any protection whatsoever once you're done with your clay bar treatment; make sure you apply a fresh coat of wax, applying a polish beforehand if so desired.

Conclusion

Doing a clay bar treatment should restore your paint to its factory finish. Coupled with a good polish and wax the clay bar will remove swirl marks, angel-hairs and cover up minor chips and scratches. For the most tenacious varieties of these defects, look into applying some Meguiars' ScratchX to the affected parts after your clay bar, before applying your coat of wax.

For severely neglected or damaged cars, however, a good old compound is in order although I recommend having that done by a professional.

Hope this helps. If there are any other questions, do not hesitate to ask.