Nissan 370Z Forum - View Single Post - Install: Clarion VX400 and Amplified 8" Bazooka

Master_Ly · 04-10-2010, 02:51 AM

I finally got around to installing some audio goodies in my Z and I wanted to document some information on my experience that I hope will benefit others. There are a lot of other tutorials out there that discusses how to install a headunit so I don't want to take away from those threads. Therefore, I'll just be providing some images and highlights.

Here are the items I installed or needed:

Rockford Fosgate RFK10I 10 AWG Power Interconnect Kit
Clarion VX400 6.5" 2-DIN DVD Receiver (Crutchfield part #020VX400)
Nissan 370Z Metra Kit 2010 Nissan 370Z w.out Nav. I, E, DD (Crutchfield part #120997607B)
Nissan Wire Harness receiver, 2007-up (Crutchfield part #120707552)
Nissan Antenna Adapter OEM antenna to Motorola Male (Crutchfield part #12040NI12)
Amplified Bazooka 8" Bass Tube Subwoofer (model #BTA8200)
Heatshrink Tubes (I used 20-12 gauge but I brought the harness with me just in case)
Wire Regular Connectors (blue 16-14 gauge)
Wire Splice Connectors (blue 16-14 gauge)
Wiring Crimpers
Solder
Soldering Iron
Torx Screwdriver
Heat Gun
Standard set of Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
Standard set of millimeter sockets or wrenches
Assorted Zip-Ties
Electrical Tape

I originally bought the Bazooka a longtime ago on eBay but I really can't remember. I did buy the amplifier wiring kit and the heat gun from Amazon.com and everything that I tied a Crutchfield part# from their website directly. I did the math and it was cheaper to buy it from them with all the stuff it came with versus buying them individually. Now, with this headunit, I really didn't need the faceplate kit but I wanted it to keep on hand. I could always sell it separately too. I also found a $20.00 off coupon on the web and used that. The rest of the stuff I either had or just picked them up from Wal-Mart, Pep Boys, etc.

Pictures of the headunit box with the features information:

I first started off with the wiring, soldering, and heatshrinking. I know there are a lot of people out there very critical about the soldering works and I know I'm am not even close to being good but I am able to do enough to get by, or be dangerous, haha. Here are some images:

The faceplate that was NOT needed; retained for back-up:

Amplifier wiring kit and for some reason, this kit came with either a 25 or 30 fuse and I happen to get the 25. I emailed RF directly and they said it was fine to replace the 25 with a 30. Please see the following image:

Headunit hotness (the screen):

Proceeding with removal of OEM headunit after disconnecting the battery. I actually didn't need to remove the shifter boot or the plastic holder thing that the shift boot is part of. I just lifted it up, rotated it 90 degrees whichever direction and placed my shirt under that plastic piece and my center console to prevent scratches. The airbag sensor was the only one still connected while the other on that plastic piece was disconnected. Here are some images I was able to snap:

Getting the new headunit ready for installation, organizing with zip-ties, and applying electrical tapes to the connectors that I didn't use and didn't have a cap:

Commence installing and mounting:

I noticed that the wiring harness is this but I called Crutchfield to make sure and they confirmed it will work fine:

Routing the amplifier turn-on wire and RCA cables for the subwoofer:

I can assure you the blue wire is NOT getting pinched. I sat there for a while messing with the parking brake and it was not getting pinched one bit. I even used some electrical tape to tape it down.

Routing the wire towards the trunk, after exiting the center console:

Into the trunk area it goes:

Getting the battery terminal ready to connect the power wire for the subwoofer:

Had to fabricate the positive terminal cover a little bit to accommodate the power wire:

Routing the power wire through the grommet for the line to the ECU (the puncture hole should be small since it stretches):

Down by the ECU now:

Along the kickplate area:

Towards the side panel behind the passenger seat (with no back speakers!):

Into the trunk area it goes:

Grounding wire for the subwoofer:

Getting it organized now:

If this helped, please "rep" me! Thank you!

04-10-2010, 02:51 AM	#1 (permalink)
Master_Ly Base Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: FL Posts: 176 Drives: 09 370Z Sport Rep Power: 20	Install: Clarion VX400 and Amplified 8" Bazooka I finally got around to installing some audio goodies in my Z and I wanted to document some information on my experience that I hope will benefit others. There are a lot of other tutorials out there that discusses how to install a headunit so I don't want to take away from those threads. Therefore, I'll just be providing some images and highlights. Here are the items I installed or needed: Rockford Fosgate RFK10I 10 AWG Power Interconnect Kit Clarion VX400 6.5" 2-DIN DVD Receiver (Crutchfield part #020VX400) Nissan 370Z Metra Kit 2010 Nissan 370Z w.out Nav. I, E, DD (Crutchfield part #120997607B) Nissan Wire Harness receiver, 2007-up (Crutchfield part #120707552) Nissan Antenna Adapter OEM antenna to Motorola Male (Crutchfield part #12040NI12) Amplified Bazooka 8" Bass Tube Subwoofer (model #BTA8200) Heatshrink Tubes (I used 20-12 gauge but I brought the harness with me just in case) Wire Regular Connectors (blue 16-14 gauge) Wire Splice Connectors (blue 16-14 gauge) Wiring Crimpers Solder Soldering Iron Torx Screwdriver Heat Gun Standard set of Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers Standard set of millimeter sockets or wrenches Assorted Zip-Ties Electrical Tape I originally bought the Bazooka a longtime ago on eBay but I really can't remember. I did buy the amplifier wiring kit and the heat gun from Amazon.com and everything that I tied a Crutchfield part# from their website directly. I did the math and it was cheaper to buy it from them with all the stuff it came with versus buying them individually. Now, with this headunit, I really didn't need the faceplate kit but I wanted it to keep on hand. I could always sell it separately too. I also found a $20.00 off coupon on the web and used that. The rest of the stuff I either had or just picked them up from Wal-Mart, Pep Boys, etc. Pictures of the headunit box with the features information: I first started off with the wiring, soldering, and heatshrinking. I know there are a lot of people out there very critical about the soldering works and I know I'm am not even close to being good but I am able to do enough to get by, or be dangerous, haha. Here are some images: The faceplate that was NOT needed; retained for back-up: Amplifier wiring kit and for some reason, this kit came with either a 25 or 30 fuse and I happen to get the 25. I emailed RF directly and they said it was fine to replace the 25 with a 30. Please see the following image: Headunit hotness (the screen): Proceeding with removal of OEM headunit after disconnecting the battery. I actually didn't need to remove the shifter boot or the plastic holder thing that the shift boot is part of. I just lifted it up, rotated it 90 degrees whichever direction and placed my shirt under that plastic piece and my center console to prevent scratches. The airbag sensor was the only one still connected while the other on that plastic piece was disconnected. Here are some images I was able to snap: Getting the new headunit ready for installation, organizing with zip-ties, and applying electrical tapes to the connectors that I didn't use and didn't have a cap: Commence installing and mounting: I noticed that the wiring harness is this but I called Crutchfield to make sure and they confirmed it will work fine: Routing the amplifier turn-on wire and RCA cables for the subwoofer: I can assure you the blue wire is NOT getting pinched. I sat there for a while messing with the parking brake and it was not getting pinched one bit. I even used some electrical tape to tape it down. Routing the wire towards the trunk, after exiting the center console: Into the trunk area it goes: Getting the battery terminal ready to connect the power wire for the subwoofer: Had to fabricate the positive terminal cover a little bit to accommodate the power wire: Routing the power wire through the grommet for the line to the ECU (the puncture hole should be small since it stretches): Down by the ECU now: Along the kickplate area: Towards the side panel behind the passenger seat (with no back speakers!): Into the trunk area it goes: Grounding wire for the subwoofer: Getting it organized now: If this helped, please "rep" me! Thank you! Last edited by Master_Ly; 04-13-2010 at 07:01 PM.