rarwz

So my camera finally arrived and I got around to finishing my install. I would say on a difficulty level this was a 7/10. It took me about 9hrs to finish everything and make it look as good as I wanted it to. Zyonara's post was extremly helpful, and all I really want to do is add a few more pictures and tips to his collection as its really that good. In order to keep this post easier to read and not flip back and forth, i'm going to quote Zyonara's pictures in the appropriate spots.

Parts:
NavTool $200.00 (see previous post about ebay)
Reverse Camera (See References, same as AK370Z) ~$30.00
Serial (db9) Cable $19.99 Gigaware 6-Ft. Serial RS-232C 9M-9F Cable : Computer Cables | RadioShack.com
Various Electrical Connectors, Line, Tape
2 small screws

Tools:
Phillips & Straight screw driver
3/8 Drill Bit (a little bigger would have been better)
7/16 Drill Bit

References:
This Post
AK370z's Original Post http://www.the370z.com/audio-video/5...am-ak370z.html
Arizona Z The Kenwood 7140, I wanted it!
LudeSH01 PICS!!! 40th ann 370z Kenwood DNX6960, JL Audio amp, 2 subs, K40 caliblre DL system..
TennesseeZ http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...ket-radio.html


Install:
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I did this install in 2 parts (since my navtool showed up a week before my camera). Step 1 is the NavTool itself. A great deal of this part is covered in TennesseeZ's post, so check that out!

1) Remove the shifter knob and Trim. Simple screw off of the shift knob, then pull up on the ring of trim around it. It is a tight fit to get in/out, but no worries.

2) Remove the kneepads. 2 screws each, then pull towards the car door

3) Remove the dash. 2 screws at the bottom by the knee pads, then pull towards you. There are 3 connectors on the back: Car Start (i never got this off), Stereo Controller (upper), Air Bag. Disconnect all, or if you can't get the Car Start one off, no biggy, just move the trim piece to the side.

4) Remove navScreen. 2 screws at the bottom, that also double to hold in the top of the stereo. Unscrew then take out from the bottom and go down, sliding out. There are 2 bars that go up from the top of the screen to keep it in, but they are only attached to the NAV screen itself. Top tab pieces are the black parts at the top of the screen in this picture:
5) Attach the NavScreen connectors/tap from NavTool
5b) I removed the radio trim in order to get the NavTool cable to run easier. 4 screws was all it took and then just pull forward. I ran the serial end of the NavTool cable down the right side, next to teh stereo, and down to the shifter. The cable is short, so thats where the extension comes in.

6) Remove the center console. There are 4 screws, 2 in front under the radio, and 1 on each side behind the seats (1st and last picture). With those 4 out, pull the cup holder out of its place by just yanking up (3rd picture). I disconnected the seat heater buttons also to make this a little easier. Unplug the IPOD connector (you will have to fee around, 4th picture). Now you will need to loosen the nut on the parking brake. You do this so that you can pull the lever up farther and get the center console out (2nd to last picture).


7) Now on the black plug (2nd picture) cut back the tape a bit, and you want to tap the yello wire (Should be the black w/ white stripe 12v). This is your power for the box, connect the power cable from NavTool.
PLEASE NOTE do not run your blue wire from NavTool to this...

8) Ground the rest of your wires to a bolt on the body (Should be 2 white, green and black). I agreed with zyonara and used the bolt by the emergency brake


9) The serial cable that taps the Video Screen wire only goes to about your shifter. I didn't notice until after the car was 1/2 apart, but in the very left side of this picture, you see where the cable extends to (its black, then connects to a grey wire). This is about where mine went to also, and where that serial cable extension comes into play. Connect it there to get the extra distance you will need.
10) Run your RCA video cable (for the rearviewcamera) and the blue (backup power indicator) cable through the passthru area to the back of the car.
11) If you want you can now reassemble the front area!


!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!PART 2!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
1) Remove the trunk mat(s) and the pastic liner under that. Part 1, 2, 9 from the following diagram

Also remove the trunk privacy screen thing if your car has one (pull the end of one side towards the center and it will come right out).
2) Remove spare tire and Bose unit, they both come out via that large hand bolt thing (light grey in color i think). Part 13 from the diagram before. You have to twist this thing for a while.

--STILL TO BE EDITED UNDER THIS LINE--
3) Remove the side panels (i couldn't get my panels out) Part 7 in the diagram and the same on the opposite side, and the foam under them, Part 10 and more 12. I got my panels loose, but couldn't get them out (not sure if it was just 1 more clip or what). The foam can be yanked (to the center). It will rip the bottom a little, but I'm not too worried about that. In order to get the side foam out, you have to release Part 5 on the diagram (on both sides).
4) Remove front foam: part 3 from the blow-up diagram. If you don't remove the side panels (Part 7) You will have to play with this a little to get it out if you didn't remove the rear side panels like I was not able to.
5) Find the big bulk of wires wrapped up in the black sleeve on the drivers side (or passenger?) of the car. I made my tap where the block is located, as that block introduced a few more orange wires just for confusion. Find the orange wire and tap it, mine was the smaller of the 2 (2nd guess). Now I found this on the DRIVERS SIDE of the car, where as some other pictures lead me to believe it was on the passenger side. You are connecting the BLUE cable from the NavTool, as well as the power for the camera (although you could wire the camera to a source that has power when the car is on, may give you a quicker signal).

This was the opposite in my car, that thick bunch of cables was on the DRIVERS SIDE.
6) Connect your ground. I did this against Part 6 from the trunk diagram, but there is a bolt a little higher that has quite a few ground wires run to it from the factory. Either will do fine.


6a) Now is a good time to test out your install to make sure you have all your connections correct, and before drilling the outside of the car. You can just connect your camera and throw the car in reverse (while started) to make sure it works!
7) We now need to make our hole that will bring the wires from the exterior of the body to the interior of the body. Drill hole on outside for car. Where I did it was very thin, so it only took a few seconds to get through. I used a 3/8 bit, but that wasn't large enough for the RCA cable and I had to wiggle the 3/8 around a bit to enlarge the hole.


8) Run your power and RCA cable through. Doing this now will help you get a better mount for the camera. From the inside of the trunk, pop in (to the inside) the rubber molding type piece that has the wire pass-thru. Keep this out for now. Get a helper, or a coat-hanger, or something so that you can push your wires from the camera UP to where the molding piece was. Make a cut in the rubber molding so your wires can pass through it. Then replace the molding.



9) Now mount camera. I pre-drilled to prevent a split in the plastic using a 7/16. The screws I had laying around, spray painted black to help them blend in a little better. Make sure to clutch the drill to very low (1) and be gentle. Stripping the plastic on the body is a bad bad thing!



10) Connect your RCA cable as well as your power cable, put all the pieces of your car back in and your done!

Final Product!