Quote:
Originally Posted by Chico370Z
I would def increase my budget...my thinking is I would rather spend a couple grand more on a decent running 240z than get a rust bucket for <$1000 that will require a million hours of work. I see that 280z are easier to find, but I am pretty set on a 240 with the L28. The 280z is a larger car, so do they both have the ~50/50 weight ratio?
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The 280z is not really a larger car. The over length and width of the body are near identical. What makes the 280z "longer" are the bumpers which can easily be removed or swapped for 240z bumpers. Thats the pure fun of having an S30 Z or 70-78 Z. The 240z, 260z, and 280z are about 90% interchangable. Honestly you could easily buy a 280z and by swapping out bumpers no one would know (excpet true Z people) that it wasn't a 240z. Hell, my 280z has the bumpers removed and aside from the badging, at a distance people ask me if it's a 240z or 260z. The rule of thumb us old Z fans use is do not focus on what year the car is unless you are planning to make a show car out of it. What you should focus on is rust and body condition, everything else can be easily swapped. Seriously, if you got a 240z you are going to put the L28 in it, 5-speed tranny, R200 diff. Basically all the parts off a 280z.
Look, not saying a 240z isn't the ultimate way to go. Just saying weight your options and really plan what you want to do with the car and it's end result. In a perfect world I would have got a 240z myself but just couldn't find one in my price range at the time. 10yrs later I love my 280z to death.
As for weight distribution they are 50/50. I believe the 240z, 260z, and 280z, are all roughly 51/49.
As for the class for auto-x I can't remember. Mine has mods which put me in street prepared. Which is another thing, once you change that engine it will change what class you are in.
Good luck and again any more questions just ask. Love to help