Kyle@STILLEN

We retain the intake air temperature sensor in the factory MAF sensor just like NISSAN does on the GT R and the 300ZX. We have done a tremendous amount of testing with our car on the dyno, street, and under hard driving conditions while we were testing out at El Toro and it allowed us to get a really good idea of what is happening. Plus, the knock sensor is very sensitive on these cars so even if there was any detonation picked up from the sensor it would automatically switch you into the high detonation map instantly and greatly decrease timing to ensure you don't damage the motor.

I have worked on a couple of cardboard samples this weekend and we're going to continue working on them. Their final production won't be cardboard...Pre-preg carbon fiber will be the final option.

First boost- 7.9 psi because we wanted to be specific for you guys. We will get to a solid 8.0 prior to shipping any kits.

Second- It is kind of hard to answer the intake temp question because there are so many variables. For example, during our testing we did some really hard tight, high revving corners to really get the temperature up and then parked the car for a few minutes to let everything heat soak then performed a 0-140 MPH test. Obviously with everything heat soaked this would be a worst case scenario and not even realistic. Even if someone were to take the car to a race track they would get 20-30 minutes between races to allow everything to cool back down and they would get the cool down lap at the end of the session and the session would have been performed at higher speeds anyways so there would be more air flow in the first place.

Let me see if I can pull some of the datalogging equipment from our engineering department that will show the efficiency of the intercooler. I know that I've seen some graphs which illustrate it really well. Some of the information is proprietary as you can imagine but I will see how I can put it into an educational light.

I saw the answer earlier to the first question regarding adiabatic efficiency. Long answer short, yes, the supercharger is in its efficiency range and has plenty of room to expand.

I don't know what the weight of everything is. We haven't really been weighing the parts that come off along with the parts that go on. Keep in mind there are quite a few parts coming off the car. I will try to get this information in the next few weeks for you.

Last question was answered in the reply above.

Because we don't have an aluminum casting foundry in our back yard we have outsourced the casting process to a company located in Los Angeles, CA. They have been a leader in automotive high performance casting manufacturing for years and they make parts for some of the largest manufacturers in the world including, Roush Racing, Ford Motorsports, Dart Heads, TRD, Magnusson superchargers and many, many more.

Just like our castings we do not have a powder coater on site so we rely on the experts who have been doing this forever. Again, we use the same powder coater as Magnusson superchargers, TRD, and many more.

We have been in contact with the insurance/warranty company and it looks like we will be able to offer the 3 year/36,000 mile engine warranty on this kit as well. We have a tentative, yes, on the warranty but we don't have the final confirmation yet. We should have that soon.

The G was running around 8.5 psi. However the G also had a different charge pipe and intercooler. We made a few changes to the setup during the swap to the Z.

1) I don't have an exact deadline on the intro price from my manager but my guess is going to be around 30 days. I'll confirm with my manager's though.

2) This is the kit that we plan on submitting to CARB for testing.

3) Warranty info answered in another reply on this post.

4) We are using the UPrev software to handle the ECU reflash. We have found that it is very user friendly and gains access to everything we could possibly want to change. When someone places their $500.00 deposit we send out the UPrev software so the customer can download their rom and send it back to us. This confirms that we have the tune on file and ready to go for the installation so that there is no downtime during the install or anything like that.

There will be complete instructions on what to do when the software arrives.

We are not using RC engineering injectos or Denso's, we are using Deatschworks injectors which are very popular on a lot of turbo and supercharger applications.

There is no piggyback on this kit.

We took this picture but to be honest with you, it really sucked. The lighting was all wrong and there is just too much white in the background. We didn't want to hold up R&D from making their switch to the Z any longer so we gave all of the parts back to R&D. Like I've said a few times, Josh and I and the rest of our marketing team are trying to gather information and pictures/video around the development of the kit. We don't want to cause any delays or get in the way of engineering. We will have a complete picture with all of the production parts laid out very soon.

No concerns at all. We have used this same air to water intercooler design for many years now and so have some of the largest forced induction manufacturers in the world as well as O.E. manufacturers. I will elaborate on some of the concerns/questions I have seen regarding air to water intercooling in another post though.

We did experience an issue on our Nissan Titan intercooler system that was causing the intercoolers to leak. That engine has a vibration to it which can break down the tube and fin intercoolers over time. To fix that we have switched to a bar and plate intercooler. Bar and plate intercoolers are extremely strong and durable. We have not had a single failure of a bar and plate intercooler.

On the 370Z we have gone straight for the bar and plate rather than trying a tube and fin first.

I will elaborate on the differences between bar and plate and tube and fin in another post. To put it bluntly, it is pretty much impossible to damage a bar and plate intercooler without some SERIOUS intent.

A new clutch/flywheel isn't "required" but it is HIGHLY recommended.