Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkJak
Thanks for confirming the driveshaft is indeed shorter on the shaft needed for the swap. Had someone on FB swearing a driveshaft spacer would work, and I think this settles it for me.
You're saying their steel driveshaft is a better buy than their more expensive aluminum one? or just that it'd be better to get one made locally due to balance issues with theirs?
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Let them put the spacer in to find out the Z shaft is now WAY longer than what's needed
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I don't know if a steel is better, it's definitely heavier. Godzilla swore up and down it's balanced and in fact was 21 grams out of balance at my local driveshaft shop. Sent them the invoice for balancing the $750 shaft that should have been ready to go out of the box. I spent 2 hrs. indexing to the rear end, 3 hours in drive time to and from the shop, and $75 for the balancing service.
We'll see if they issue a partial refund but they're already were deflecting asking what my driveline angle is, what the spacing is between the shaft flange from the tail shaft housing, and noted that I didn't buy their $200 trans. mount when their instructions clearly say it's not necessary and just a luxury if you don't want to hack your OE mount like I did.
Driveline angle changes negligibly with the tail shaft housing only 1/2" closer to the rear end. So that's laughable.
Spacing at the front driveshaft flange is a direct correlation to their shaft length NOT any installation mistake as the transmission position is dictated by where the engine flange is located (no change) and the rear end position is fixed. So the distance from the engine flange to the rear end flange stays the same with the VR trans being 1/2" longer and new driveshaft 1/2" shorter than OE. If the spacing from the tail shaft housing to the driveshaft flange is wrong that would be an effect of their driveshaft length.
BTW, I didn't touch the driveline angle nor spacing at the tail shaft, only had their shaft balanced and the vibration is gone!!!
