Quote:
Originally Posted by SG4247
Awesome, I’m fixing to do mine also.
Tell us about the driveshaft and crossmember?
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I ordered a shortened shaft from Godzilla Raceworks.
I cut a window in only the crossmember wall to allow the OE mount to stick out the back. I saw a lot of swappers hacking the hell outta the crossmember which is lazy and I feel weakens it. I slotted the cross member to mount holes enough so the crossmember could slide far enough for it to hit the tail shaft to trans. housing mounting bolts. They wound up being 1/4" away but I didn't want to come up short when stabbing the transmission back in and have to start grinding again. I also added large washers to the mount nuts.
I left the mount to cross member nuts loose for easy positioning while reinstalling the transmission.
The only part I swapped into the VR30 trans. from the Z was the TCM, I retained all of the VR30 shift solenoids as (member) Franketier did.
The OE cooler lines need to be lengthened and flared or they'll leak. I highly recommend Awab style clamps and I heat shielded the rubber line extensions.
I also had to lengthen the slot on the rod between the shifter and transmission as there was tension upon assembling and notchiness going into manual mode. Never saw this mentioned anywhere.
While the two lower engine to trans bolts are known to be deleted, the next engine to trans. bolt (under starter) also wouldn't line up for me.
I HIGHLY recommend installing a dipstick tube in your existing Z transmission and checking the fluid level per the manual. Then scribe the dipstick for cold full fluid level and warm full fluid level i.e. 104*-113* per the FSM process to check the fluid at the pan. You must scribe the dipstick as the OE markings were not intended for the Z and are inaccurate. Now you can swap it over to the VR30 transmission as it will make filling and checking levels much easier.
I initially filled the VR30 trans. with 8 qts., started the engine and immediately poured in another qt. while running. I then topped it off using my dipstick warm fluid level scribe in the 104*-114* range. Of course it was rechecked and adjusted after the first drive and will do so on the first few subsequent drives as well.
More info. can be found in post 6319 and 6323 here
What did you do with your Z today V (ON TOPIC DISCUSSION ONLY)