I see an issue with the toe links
The shortcut approach which has its drawbacks is the SPC toe link:
https://www.splparts.com/products/37...toe-bolts.html
This requires cutting and isn't a long term solution since eccentric bolts slip. Also note it's sold by SPL Parts (just the link I used for convenience) but it's made by SPC, a different company.
SPL itself offers two solutions for toe adjustment:
- An adjustable midlink arm with built in spring bucket for both toe AND some height adjustability. This, however, requires the use of 65mm inner diameter springs, and i'm not sure H&R springs are. In some pix that look like progressive springs with a varying diameter, which definitely won't fit
https://www.splparts.com/products/37...mid-links.html
- An adjustable toe link with no bucket for the springs. This is for those with "true" type coi lovers
https://www.splparts.com/products/37...toe-links.html
SPL also has an adjustable camber arm that will work no problem:
https://www.splparts.com/products/37...e-version.html
As well as a traction arm:
https://www.splparts.com/products/37...tion-arms.html
And of course the best front upper adjustable arm in the game:
https://www.splparts.com/products/37...ster-arms.html
The issue is you bought a car with a half-assed lowering solution. If you want to lower your car correctly:
1) Throw away those stupid springs
2) Hit up Fortune Auto for a set of coilovers, specify Swift Springs, 65mm id
3) Grab the SPL arms all around, and the eccentric lockout kit
4) Drop the boxes off at your local trustworthy suspension shop
5) Win
oh and get better wheels