Dude this is awesome, thanks for your input! I added some notes/context on a few things to see if that changes your advice for me.
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Originally Posted by 2011 Nismo#91
Cage TBH you can just get a quality harness bar. MA-Motorsports for example. I used "RPM Roll bars" 4 point cage. But you'd have to check if they still make on otherwise you'll just have to get one made by a shop others have used at your track events. I would not recommend any other prefab cage.
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Interesting -- I ruled out just going with a harness bar since they *can* be more dangerous in event of a rollover. My (limited) research had me land on a 4-point weld in cage.
I saw RPM is popular but at $2,000+ price point, while some of the others are $500. Not sure if "you get what you pay for" applies a lot here since the design looked very similar but I didn't inspect weld quality or type of steel, thickness, etc.
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Originally Posted by 2011 Nismo#91
Suspension, All good, I'll link my track/street settings.
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Awesome -- this would be super helpful as a starting point. I'm installing the KW coilovers and SPL parts this weekend.
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Originally Posted by 2011 Nismo#91
You really need a fuel starve fix system! CJM is the best but $ and isn't always available.
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I haven't experienced any fuel starvation issues yet at 4 different tracks I've been on -- but imagine it's bound to happen at some point. Didn't consider it originally since it's a non-issue. I don't let the tank go below 1/2 full, so maybe that's why?
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Originally Posted by 2011 Nismo#91
Exhaust, up to you but see if you want to get simple cutouts manual or electric, might save you some money and keep the exhaust stock.
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I have an Invidia Gemini installed right now with Berk HFCs, stock headers. I don't *need* any more power mods, but the more torque = the more smiles. Same reason why I was looking at ported intake manis.
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Originally Posted by 2011 Nismo#91
Rotors, Personally I don't care for 2 piece, especially Z1's crap steel, "Warping included at no extra cost." Cryo treated blanks have worked just fine for me. Pads, Might be too aggressive XP12 but that's up to you. Most use 10's.
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I've been using XP10s front / XP8's rear and they've been great. Was going to bump to 12's front, but going to hold off on trying that until I get a sticker compound tire (in the future).
So far the Z1's 2-piece has been good, although I see the XP10's aren't wearing evenly after the last track weekend so I'm trying to figure out what is going on there. The pad thickness is different at the ends.
Regardless -- agreed that blanks generally are the best route (sans going to a big break kit). Might go back to blanks after this Z1 set is worn out.
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Originally Posted by 2011 Nismo#91
IMO go with the Whiteline bushing. OEM Clutch/Flywheel will last reasonably well. But since you should be upgrading the CSC you should do this too. Any flywheel will chatter so just go with a lightweight one. Stay away from a puck and dual clutch ones, more than you need, full face organic will do just fine. Zspeed CSC delete or HDCSC is needed. The heat will just destroy the stock one.
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Plan is to change out everything at once, and probably before there is a failure. 80,000 miles and ~1,000 track miles on the stock trans so I imagine I'm inching closer every weekend to a CSC or clutch failure.
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Originally Posted by 2011 Nismo#91
Undershroud isn't really needed unless your OEM one is damaged. If you can get the get the Zspeed undershroud. Hood vents, Very helpful! Kinda scary making that first cut. Splitter, Only helpful at the advanced level, more trouble than it's worth. A proper sized one will need to be removed when not at the track or it's a trailer only car. Wing Only helpful at the advanced level. Plus if you want a functional one, your going to have to get one of the big obnoxious ones. If your going all out trailer track car make a proper diffuser.
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I killed the OEM undershroud going off track last year. And with the oil cooler, lines are running below so I like the added peace of mind that they have some more protection. I've been able to stay below 240-250 deg wit the 25 row, but I think you're right and I'll upgrade to the 34. Hood vents are already in and I think do make a difference.
Wings, splitters, and canards....just because they're cool and I've wanted a winged car since I was a kid. Extra down force is just a bonus. Racecars are toys, so might as well have fun with it!
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Originally Posted by 2011 Nismo#91
The AC doesn't rob power like in the olden days. It has a clutch that only engages when you turn it on. When it's off its just the resistance of the bearings. Honestly is a few pounds of weight worth having to sweat in the texas heat? If your concerned about weight, relocate and switch your battery out to a lithium one. If you are determined to get rid of the AC a cool suit is a good investment.
Not sure what pulleys you'd remove, I don't see a worthwhile cost benefit there. It's not worth the headache.
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My AC died after the last track weekend. Drove home, white smoke started coming out of the hood vents and the AC died. Drove 4 hours, stopped in my driveway, and the belt snapped. AC compressor seized up. The local auto shop said there was metal that went through the entire system and damaged everything and wanted $4k to replace everything. I said no thanks, I'll just bypass the AC, and that's what started this journey to make it more track-oriented.
I imagine the compressor wasn't designed to operate at high heat/high RPMs consistently (even if the AC is off).
Yesterday I removed 2 pulleys and got a new belt to bypass the compressor. Car is back running like a champ. I'll take out the compressor another day and if I ever need to replace the radiator I can get one without a condenser.
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Originally Posted by 2011 Nismo#91
Yaw Sensor kill switch. Ok but ask yourself before you turn it off, "Is it OK if I crash today for that extra 2 seconds because I need that trophy to get sponsorships?" If it's yes then sure go right ahead. You are much more likely to be towing your car home and cost a lot more than that switch. I almost never turned the TCS off, was I slower for it, sure. But I am also fairly certain I would have crashed at least twice. In non competitive driving there is really no incentive to get those extra few seconds except for a little online bragging.
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I bought the Z because it's modern-ish but basic. 6MT, all motor, minimal nannies. It's a "drivers car" compared to many other modern sport cars that can do most of the driving for you. I'm faster with TCS off, and like the challenge of being able to drive it without the assist. I haven't turned VSC off yet but if I can get back on track with no/low other traffic, I'll see how it feels without. Last weekend I was 2 seconds faster without TCS and less frustrated by the killing of power in corners where I wanted it.
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Originally Posted by 2011 Nismo#91
My track record times I think are pretty respectable, all with full TCS on and a passenger. "It's not a matter of if you crash, it's a matter of when" "The best trophy is taking your car home in one piece"
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Well said. Always am proud when me AND the car come home in 1 piece.