Thread: Mc & csc
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Old 09-09-2022, 09:36 AM   #13 (permalink)
FX-32
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Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: ATL
Posts: 21
Drives: G37s Coupe 6MT ACE
Rep Power: 3359
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I did mine recently, two months ago, I was at the ATL airport "parked"/waiting in a non appropriate spot waiting for a friend to come off the arrivals door, and a police officer turned on the red blue lights, OK time to move I said, clutch in, First and... nope!! all of the sudden my CSC failed right there in the worst possible moment. I forced first gear and eventually it got in. I know it's risky but I was a bit scared of all that situation.

I parked as quickly as I could and checked Fluid level, it was good, but quickly it got empty after a few pumps.

So that same weekend I dropped my transmission, on four 6ton jack stands, and it took me 16 hours on Saturday, and 8 hours on Sunday. I didn't bleed it because I wanted to replace the master cylinder as well to start fresh with new parts, that took me about three more hours (I have a G37 and the master is bigger than the 370z, so it was harder to remove it, eventually it got out, and I put a 370z master. The only difference is that the G37 master has a damper to absorb vibrations and give a more luxurious feel... I noticed zero difference with my new 370z master cylinder)

If you already did it in the past, I suggest looking up for THE CARIZON videos related to transmission. I highly appreciate his videos, I wouldn't do it if it weren't for him doing such a great DIY guide.

The only part that gave me a hard time was to put the transmission back in! I lost about 6 or 7 hours, it was extremely frustrating but eventually it got in.

I purchased a Harbor freight transmission jack, the cheapest one (about $125) and that was the issue, it lacks of adjustability. It would been much easier with a better jack, I didn't want to cheap out, I just didn't know.

The transmission jack used by THE CARIZON looks pretty good, I suggest getting one like that.

Also, you could upgrade flywheel and clutch as well, pilot bushing, and maybe rear main seal (I didn't change it).

Get a decent quality torque wrench, and if your exhaust hardware is rusted, buy new bolts and nuts as well so if you need to use a grinder to remove them, you already have a good replacement.

I would say it's a pretty straightforward job, it's not really hard hard, but it's time consuming. I didn't hurry at all and wanted to take my time.

I didn't drain my transmission fluid and I didn't spill anything either, while removing the driveshaft.
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