Dreadnaught

Over the weekend I dropped my transmission. I did the job in my single car garage and put my Z up on jack stands. My girlfriend helped me do the job since she wanted to learn. My neighbor, myself and my girlfriend put a floor jack under the transmission to pull it in and out. The transmission is heavy! The last time I dropped my trans was when I was working at a dealership so I put my car on a lift and I had a transmission jack.

I replaced the rear main seal, pilot bushing, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, CSC, CSC clutch fluid feed tube, flywheel bolts and the pressure plate bolts. All parts are OEM. I also drained and filled my transmission fluid.

You will need to buy the Snap-On special tool wheat bread. The tool was $1.49 at my local grocery store. This will be used to remove the pilot bushing. Stuff the pilot bushing with bread as tight as you can. Then get a bolt that will fit in the pilot bushing and hit the bolt with a dead blow hammer to compress the bread. Repeat this process until the old pilot bushing is all the way out. Mine came out really easy.

For installation simply tap in the new pilot bushing with the dead blow. The pilot bushing is chamfered on both ends so you can put it in either way. Once I got the pilot bushing in a tad, I put a 3/8's drive deep 15mm socket on top and tapped it the rest of the way in. It will bottom out. There is a little lip inside the crank where it goes into. You will notice a different sound and feel when this is accomplished. I also just looked at where the old one was too before I took it out.

For the removal of the rear main seal I used a screw and drilled it into the rear main seal a couple of threads. Be very careful to not hit the crank of the block. Once the screw was in I got some pliers and grabbed the screw and the seal came out with just a little force. Some oil will come out. For installation of the new seal, I just tapped it in evenly all the way around with my dead blow hammer. Once I got it almost seated I used the old one and placed it over the new one to help it sit just perfect in the block and around the crank. There is also a little lip that will stop the seal from going in to far so the seal was perfectly flush with the face of the block.

All I got to do is connect the battery and put the inside back together.

Be damn sure that you use a good T55 torx socket when loosening and tightening the flywheel bolts. I loosened the bolts by hand. The head of the bolts are shallow so if you round them out you will be having a bad day. Per the FSM, lubricate the input shaft with lithium grease. I also put lithium grease on the pilot bushing face and inside of it. I also put lithium grease on the clutch splines.

The flywheel bolts are 65 ft lbs.
The 17mm bell housing bolts are 55 ft lbs.
The 14mm bell housing bolts are 34 ft lbs.
The pressure plate bolts are 11 ft lbs, then 29 ft lbs.

Loosen and tighten the above mentioned bolts in a star pattern. All of the other bolts were torqued to German specification which is guudentight.

So, if you're wanting to do this job, don't be a pvssy and just tackle it with a friend.

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Ford Diesel and Heavy Line Technician at your service.