My first DIY post.
Apologize in advance for some of the pictures (or lack of pictures). I had a hard time getting in focus with my phone.
Background:
I have a 2010 Roadster. The hydraulic pump began to make noise when opening top ~2 months ago. It got worse until the back lid would not open all the way. I figured the pump went bad. I searched the forums/web and found two things out.
1. Nissan charges ~$6,000+ to replace the entire top which is their procedure for a top hydraulic problem. (confirmed by my local dealer @$6,800). Not unusual for Nissan I think. My 04 350Z had a simple bearing noise in the transmission and they flew a transmission in from Japan to fix that. Probably easier for their techs to work with modules rather than individual components (time wise).
2. I found a place in Oregon that specializes in hydraulic tops (especially sports cars). I can't say enough good things about these guys. I spoke with Klaus @ TH and he guided me through the process with after hours emails and calls. Almost unheard of customer service in todays world!
They rebuild pumps, cylinders, make lines, etc.
Top Hydraulics | Rebuilt and Upgraded Convertible Top Cylinders, Pumps, Hydraulic Lines - Top Hydraulics, Inc
How it works:
There is a small hydraulic pump on the floor of the top storage area that is electrically controlled. 16 hydraulic lines come out of the pump and go to the various cylinders that raise the lid, lock the top and lid and fold the top at 3 points. Each of these lines are numbered on both ends. According to Klaus the lines going to the lid lift system seem to have a high incidence of problems (Lines #71&72). This seems to be due to line routing issues on some of the cars. In my case it was a different line(#22).
The system is pretty sophisticated to do all of this work in a small area, but if you break it down into its components it is fairly straight forward. I would not hesitate to work on it again if I had to with the help I got from Top Hydraulics.
The most important pieces of advice I can give and some of this was learned because I did not follow instructions and became impatient.
1. Follow instructions (verbal, email) from Top Hydraulics
to the letter and you will succeed.
2. Be patient. There is a lot going on in this area but if you work systematically, clean up after yourself, allow plenty of time and take a break if you get frustrated you will be OK. Believe me if I can do it so can you.
3. Take pictures of how the system lines were routed as reference before starting to work.
The problem:
My pump had run low on fluid do to a small leak in Line#22 which goes to the middle cylinder on the drivers side (line abraded by rubbing against a nearby hinge point). Had I run it longer I may have damaged the pump by running with low/no fluid.
How to fix it.
1. Open the top until the top just unlatches and the lid is full open.
2. Disconnect the battery.
3. You will need something to hold the lid open while you work. I used a cargo strap from the top of the lid back over rear trunk and attached it to the valance underneath.
4. Take the two black plastic push rivets out on either side of the cover that is at the bottom of the storage well. Also pull out the gray plastic rivets that hold the top of the same cover. I used the little plastic fork tool that you use when installing sound systems, etc.
5. Roll cover back and you will see the lines, pump, electrics, etc. The pump is in the green rubber foam held to the floor with silver strap and bolt (T25 head)
6. The white Styrofoam block next to the pump can be removed by rotating it forward and
carefully bending the two tabs that catch on the mount for the floor cover. You don't need to do this but it may be easier (allows access to bottom bolts of pump strap).
7. Carefully remove the zip ties and friction tape covering that hold the hydraulic lines in the area around the pump. Don't damage the lines.
8. Remove pump in the foam straight up. Carefully cut the tape that holds the two halves of the green foam. Now you can see the pump, lines and electric solenoids.
9. Disconnect the 2 electrical connectors and remove the relay pack from the bracket.
10. Remove the 3 allen bolts on the front of the pump assembly that hold the lines to the pump system.
NOTE: There are 3 front bolts (hold lines to valve body) and two electrical connectors to remove from pump. DO NOT remove any other bolts on the pump.
11. Tug on each of the lines individually and they will come free from the valve body. DO NOT take any of the snap clips out. The aluminum plate will keep everything in the correct orientation.
Now you should be able to remove the pump if you want to. The pump should still have 2 electrical connectors, the relay pack, and the valve body with solenoids still attached.
12. Back at the top cylinder you disconnect the bad line by sliding a small forked lip on the top of the cylinder back and the line will come free by wiggle/pull. Use a toothpick or similar (no metal!) to remove the oring that may be left in the cylinder.
13. Cut the end of the line off (~1-2" back so you can see the line number). Send this to Top Hydraulics and they will make you a new line. If you are sending the pump back, they have instructions on how to pack. According to Klaus most of the time it is the line and the pumps are OK.
14. Once you get the new line back follow the instructions they give you. Remember to install orings as they tell you. I worked backwards from the cylinder to the pump and carefully routed the line like it was before.
15. Once you get the line back to the pump pull the bad line out of the aluminum plate and insert the new line. Follow the instructions they give on using a cool simple tool they provide to put the snap ring in the right place. install the oring on the line.
16. One by one push the 16 lines back in the valve body leaving the aluminum plate loose on the lines. The line should push straight in and bottom out. Once all 16 lines are in and pushed all the way in you can slide the aluminum retainer plate up and reinstall bolts. Take your time here. if the line does not look seated it probably isn't.
17. Refill the pump (brass top plug on plastic reservoir) with the correct hydraulic fluid. Top Hydraulics recommended a Mercedes Benz OEM product (FeBi 02615) from
Auto Parts at AutohausAZ - OEM Auto Parts - Discount Replacement Parts, Resources and Car Care Tips 1 qt way more than enough. Keep it clean, don't use a dirty funnel.
18. Start remounting the new zip ties, wire loom and friction tape. I worked from the cylinder back to the pump. Take your time. Leave enough slack up top that the lines/wires do not bind but not so much that things get caught in the various hinges. The most critical area is where the lines come down inside the main top hinge. They are actually inset into the "C" shaped hinge upright.
Use good zip ties and I used a 3M friction tape (3M 1755 friction tape, available at Home Depot ~$10 roll). Replicate what the factory did for routing and covering. I covered some other areas with the tape and wire loom I had that I thought may be vulnerable to being hit.
19. Once you are back near the pump (don't mount all of the ties in this area yet so you can test and refill the pump). Make sure the pump is dropped down in its slot and the covering is pulled back over top.
20. Run a test ( a helper would be great) carefully cycle the top back and forth to see if anything is binding. If OK you can run full cycles. If all OK you should top pump off (you would have lost some due to refilling the lines).
21. Reattach the green foam around the pump. Tape with packing tape or duct tape. Remount the connectors, pump strap, reinstall the white foam if you removed it. Finish the covering and zip ties near the pump. Watch leaving tools in the lid area.
That should be it. I hope I did not forget something. Lets see how long my handy work lasts.
Good luck and I recommend Top Hydraulics as the best resource for technical questions and help..
Anoman