Quote:
Originally Posted by VABAM
"Best mod is the nut behind the wheel." You hear that said a lot in the automotive world and it is definitely true in archery and other equipment based sports. Once you have solid fundamentals, going to different bows and different styles of bows will be easier. The biggest challenges with recurves is the constant draw weight (aka no let off) and pulling back the same amount each time. Recurve accuracy is affected by the amount you pull it back and there is no stopping point like there is on a compound. If you watch competition recurve you'll see "clickers" being used. The clicker tells the archer when they have pulled the arrow back far enough.
Just in case you're wondering what a recurve clicker looks like.
That PSE will serve you well for a long time. I took a look at it and agree its a good bow to start with and will be a good bow to grow into. TBH unless you want to get something fancier, I see no reason to get something else later on. Read up on how to maintain a compound bow and the warning signs that something is about to fail (frayed/nicked string, cracked/de-laminating limb etc.). While rare, a catastrophic failure on a compound, especially at full draw is not pretty.
IMO Paper targets are really only good for competition/scoring. I've seen competitions where they have replaced the paper target after only one arrow. I would be looking at "foam" style block targets. They're the more expensive option but they tend to be more durable, repairable and usually easier to repaint bullseyes on. The "bag" style while cheaper wear out faster and are harder to repair. What ever you get, get something with multiple bullseyes so you are not wearing out one spot on the target. Also when your skill level improves you can avoid having to repair arrows by putting one arrow into each bullseye. Unless you want to try and Robin Hood an arrow.
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Got the bow tuned yesterday at a local archery shop. OMG, what a difference! The knuckle heads at Bass Pro Shop had set it up pretty badly.
The whisker biscuit was set too high, the peep sight wasnt aligned, the draw stops werent set correctly. The draw length they set for me was way off.
The bow tech had me dialed in and the bow fits like a glove. Took it out to the park and my shot grouping got alot smaller. I still need to zero in the sights though.
Question, so I have a 5 pin sight. What distance would each pin represent? Is there a standard or do I zero each pin to whatever distance I want, ie, 10 yd increments, etc?
Side note, thank god the range was pretty empty. The gf had Pepper and they were sitting off to the side of the range. Pepper was crying like there was no tomorrow, wanting to run to me. As I was retrieving my arrows, I hear the clanking of her dog tags. I turn around and here she come barrelling down on me, then running around the range like a lunatic..