Quote:
Originally Posted by SonicVQ
Excellent troubleshooting! What an unusual issue.
UpRev or EcuTek?
What is your ECUID?
Did the replacement ECU have the stock programming?
I have seen that in some cases when the ECU is very busy (like uploading a tune) it can create false CAN bus faults. This is because the ECU doesn't have the time to send the normal "heart beats" to the various modules. These are resolved once the ECU is back to normal operation and the vehicle is driven a few times (drive cycles) BUT you can't do that...
If the starter relay is being activated, it isn't a NATS issue...
I assume the "red key" dash light is not on. (verifing it isn't a NATS issue)
I have seen a few cases where the starter wire connection is corroded (between copper lug and copper washers) and it arcs when starting, creating a poor electrical connection. 80 grit sandpaper fixes it.
I know you had the starter tested, but have you tested for 12v at the thin starter cable when someone pushes the start button and do you have a constant 12 volts at the thick starter cable?
Also, look into the B26E8 / clutch interlock switch - that might stop the car from starting if it thinks the clutch is not pressed.
I think you can use a wire and jump the 2 connections in the clutch switch connector to ensure the BCM thinks the clutch is pressed.
Good luck!
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Thanks for the advice.
If it's what I think it is, ECUID appears to be 3GY2D. Also flashed 3GY2B. The replacement ECU was pre-flashed with the custom tune.
The tuner also agreed that the DTCs likely weren't a big deal.
I can also confirm that I have gotten no red key lights.
I did clean the starter when it was out. Normal grim was as expected. Electrical connection was flawless though. Gave it a dab of dielectric grease before putting it back in.
I have confirmed that the normal voltages and voltage drops are present at the cable going to the starter as listed in the FSM. I haven't been able to test the smaller cable going to the solenoid on the starter yet. My guess that with a operational starter and 12V at the starter, there's going to be no signal at the smaller cable or the car would be turning over. I will report findings though.
The clutch interlock was what I had tested as noted above, including shorting out the connector. I appears that I was a incorrect and also referring to it as the neutral safety switch. It appears that the neutral safety switch is at the rear of the trans and seems simple enough to check even though it is not listed as part of the start circuit. I'll be giving that a test along with the smaller starter control cable later today.