I've been working quietly (trying to avoid detection by those that think adding this much weight to the z is sacrilege) on my ideal audio setup. Everyone knows the problems with the base stereo, and the noise that is transmitted through the bare metal body work.
My setup right now consists of:
Kenwood KDC-X993
Memphis M-series Tweeters
Memphis
PR-series 6.5s
Rockford Fosgate T400-2 amp
JL 10w3v3 in H.O. Wedge
This is just a temporary setup to get some good sound while I wait for what I really want:
JL ZR650 Components Driven by the Rockford T400-2
2X JL 8w7-3 in a custom box sunken in to the spare tire well
Either a JL HD 750/1 or a JL Slash 1000/1v2 will power the subs.
Some may know that I mainly frequent the performance sections of the forum, and I almost always lean towards performance over luxury. However, the sound system is my exception, as I love my tunes and its about the only mod that won't void my warranty. The 8w7 box will weigh 60lbs or more, so I'm designing it with lifting handles to be easily pulled out before any track excursions.
Yesterday I pulled out my hatch interior and got to work with 6 sheets of Dynamat Extreme. I have never used Dynamat before so I was a bit skeptical of the cost to benefit ratio. All I can say is wow! It took over 8 hours of cutting and fitting to get the coverage I wanted, but the result was amazing. I can't even hear my exhaust in the car (time for a louder one). The road noise from the wheel wells is all but gone. The only place I hear gravel pinging now is under the front floor pan. I still have three sheets left, so sometime this weekend I'll be pulling the door panels off and laying the rest down under there. So I added 30ish lbs of weight but IMHO it was worth it.
So that's 9 sheets all together for a total of 72sqft of Dynamat Extreme.
A few notes:
The panel that has the cutout for the rear speaker is long and fragile be very careful with this one. I broke both of mine; one coming out and the other going back in.
Be careful when applying Dynamat to the top of the hatch, simply because it is very easy to wind up having to trim a lot off. The lines on the hatch are a bit deceptive.
Most of the fasteners that snap the panels in place are reinforced. Some with metal, most with plastic. Good on Nissan for taking this step, but don't be fooled. You can still snap clips off at the base if you tug too hard. Don't try to remove any of the panels between the hatch area and the back side of the driver seat without the proper tools, YOU WILL BREAK THEM.
I know this thread is worthless without pics, and I've got a few floating around. However, I just don't have time right now to mess with trying to post them up. I'll get around to it.