The question about the VR30DDTT swap is becoming more common, so I’m going to share what I know and the others might tag on anything I miss.
But, let’s start with this... so far this motor is not as proven as the 3.7 on boost and if you’re trying to be the fastest then I’d wait for more development if you aren’t a shop/manufacture. The VR is only NOW making 700+ whp numbers. Getting that cleared up because the air heads will chime in.
Motor: In the Z33/34 chassis it require no modification to get the motor to fit. I do 100% recommend getting Z1 motor mounts because you will need the motor to sit lower to clear the strut brace. I made the mistake of buying BDE ones that work, but I have clearance issues.
Transmission: We have one homie that did the swap with an automatic transmission and I believe he only had to get a customer driveshaft. Mine is 6 speed and I purchased a custom flywheel and notched a new hole for the CPS because it’s about an inch to the right compared to the 3.7. Almost every bolt fits except the bottom two, but everyone is running with out them including Nissan (to my knowledge). You’ll be fine.
Wiring: This is the hardest part of the swap and, though I was warned by Z1/Jon, I moved forward. You will need an engine room harness that is modified so both CAN systems communicate like it’s OEM. I’m on my second harness and we’re still doing testing, but looks like we will have something to release within the coming month. Everything should work even down to power steering, push start, creature comforts, etc. It’ll be plug and play for you guys, while I suffered for months �� (thank you to the homie and Z1 for helping!)
Fueling: I used a Hellcat 525 pump (bit overkill) and the DW relay kit. My buddy who’s did my harness wired the harness so that it’s also plug and play for that kit (if needed). I’m still on stock fuel system for now which is a limiting power factor, but just a few bolt on parts. Nothing serious.
Accessories: I do recommend full down pipes and BOV. It’s annoying to get the downpipes on the car with the motor already in (learned the hard way and pulled the motor out again to install them). Just try to get these done beforehand. Clock the driver side downpipes a bit to get it to fit if you’re getting the motor in from the front. Drop the subframe if you have a lift. You’ll need a heat exchanger mounted up front, but it’s very easy to find a location and route the lines. But of a headache to bleed the turbo system, but it’s fairly simple.
Tuning: I’m working with Z1 (Jon Parham) for the tunes and EcuTek. Jon has tuned multiple VR swaps and is insanely knowledgeable. I’m not putting down other tuners at all and hopefully it doesn’t come off like that. I just trust Jon whole heartedly and he helps keep things in perspective. EcuTek is constantly developing to push the VR30 platform and I’m happy to use my car as a test dummy. Hopefully it helps and we can find solutions to the common complaints with all of us working together.
Needless to say, it’s a fun swap and something different. I plan to do road course for my car and beat the piss out of it purely for development. I do want to push for crazier power when certain elements get released, but until then it’s a YouTube content, development, and personal enjoyment car. If anyone wants to take it one, my only recommendation is to get everything on hand and use your tools. I have posted info on multiple forums, YouTube and now here incase anyone wants to give it a go. Hopefully this helps anyone who has been interested in the swap.
More importantly, have fun. I started this swap with ZERO knowledge on how to pull motors or any of this. If it wasn’t for the people who helped and Z1, I would’ve taken even longer than I already have. There was so much knowledge gained about my Z and VRs that I couldn’t be more thankful for the help. We have a small community of VR swaps constantly sharing data so we can help anyone out.
I believe I got everything, but if it’s missed then I know someone will clear up the missing elements.
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