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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 2,401
Drives: slowly
Rep Power: 40569
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First thanks for taking the time to post all the details of your build and your goals and issues. Most people don't take the time to do that and either get flamed or get bad info.
My recommendations will be to go for the items that have the biggest bang for the buck because of your location and focused on building a good track car that still works on the street but probably won't be a great DD. Your situations is almost exactly like mine, except for the shipping.
First I see Z1 as the Amazon for Nissan Zs, it's one stop shopping but you can almost always get anything they sell there from other places and for less. Zspeed is good too, and don't be afraid to look for things on places like Rockauto too.
( Click to show/hide )
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeeThruHead
I removed the superficial stuff because it's your car enjoy it.
Stage 0.5: Minor/Minimum Upgrades - RJM Pedal Assembly (good)
- Coolerworx Short Shifter (very nice but when I tried it on another guys 350, I thought that I could easily miss shift and mess up the trans being too quick, I'd save it for later, stock is fine)
- Stainless braided brake lines (good but inspect them on some regular schedule, while better for brake feel they have a higher chance at failure over time)
- Wavetrac Differential (great choice)
- Z1 370z Diff upgrade kit (I'd say no. A simple Nismo finned diff cover will work just fine, save the money and get a Whiteline bushing.)
- Bell Raceworks Diff Brace (sure why not)
- Z1 370z Alu Subframe Bushing collars (I got solid spl ones)
Stage 1.1: Handling - Upgraded sway bars (Hotchkiss full stiff upfront, you can run without a rear or keep the stock or Hotchkiss on lightest because it's still a street car)
- Hotchkis Heavy Duty Billet Sway bar bushing brackets (the ones it come with are sufficent)
- SPL rear sway bar end links
- SPL Billet rear camber arms
- SPL Billet rear toe arms
- SPL Titanium Rear Traction Links
- SPL Front sway bar end links
- SPL Front upper control arms
- SPL Eccentric lockout kit
(All these items together have a roughly the same impact as they sway bar upgrade, they are not bad but the bang for the buck isn't there imo.)
- Feal Coilovers 441+ (Swift springs, extended damper adjust)(road race version) (I'm sure they're fine, but I'd prefer KWV3s in retrospect they JRZs are just too much $ for my level, get a shock dyno on what ever you get. Stiff springs will make regular driving more painful but will significantly help you on the track. It's a difficult balancing act.) Read this
Stage 1.2: NA Power (GOAL: 345WHP) - Z1 Intakes
- PPE Engineering Long tube headers ($1660USD) (Black coating, spike)
- FI TDX catback with carbon fiber mufflers, 18inch resonators, high flow cats
- Ecutek tune
(All good here, millions of different opinions here but test pipes and tune are the biggest bang for the buck, check out Garageline for a cheaper catback that's still decent)
Stage 1.3: Cooling - Mishimoto Radiator (Stick with OEM, its good enough, get silicone hoses if you want to spend some $, I went with the ConceptZ kit, seemed the most comprehensive)
- z1 motorsports oil cooler kit (you can get a Setrab cooler and thermostatic sandwich from a lot of places, just get 34 rows the rest is just hose. Also a metal block off plate for winter, mine was just Velcro'd on the edges of the cooler and an aluminum rectangle.
- CJM active baffle oil pan (great choice)
- Z1 Power steering cooler upgrade (Same as the oil cooler, you don't need much but you do need something)
Stage 1.4: Wheels - Enkei RPF1 SPL 10.5 inch square (great)
- 285/35R18 Mich PS4S Square (put a decent set of A/S on your base wheels and go with RE71Rs or R888R size seems fine, million opinions there but feel it out over time, it's a fine start)
Stage 1.5: Brakes - Stoptech or AP racing BBK (Good choices, need to get rid of those base sets, sport ones would be a fine lower cost alternative, avoid all the money pit rotor options and stick with simple.)
Stage 1.6: Rigidity/Other stuff - Soul performance Front Fender Braces
- Soul performance 4 Point front d-brace
- Soul performance Rear lower M Brace (maybe?)
- Soul performance Rear Tie Bar
- Z1 undershroud
(meh, money pit, where the F*#k is your safety equipment, spend $ there)
Stage 1.7: Aero/Cosmetics - INSG+1 N-SPEC Ver.NISMO body kit (Just NO!)
- INGS+1 Power Wing (NO!)
370z Rocket Nose Splitters or APR.
APR or Aeromotions wing.
Look into vinyl wraps instead of paint. Cheaper and removable.
NA imo you need more front downforce then rear, but also I always had a NismoV1 wing.
Stage 2.0: Fuel - Radium Surge pump setup. (No, you need a good proven fuel starve fix, CJM Road Race would be best)
- CJM billet fuel rails (No, not necessary)
- CJM alu top hat for sender pump (Wont hurt, top hats can break even under street driving)
Stage 2.1: Booooooooost (Goal 550WHP) - (If your going to boost leave the intake and headers alone, just go with drop ins and test pipes. It's maybe a 10whp difference and saves lots of money)
- OSG triple disk clutch (Sure but it's $, no CSC replacement listed? Get the Zspeed Elimination kit imo. Take to Joe at Zspeed and your end power goals and drivability he'll find you want works best.
- Topgunz ACE super charger kit / its possible i may skip this and go straight to TT (yeah up to you, you will constantly be chasing heat issues at the track with any option.)
- Retune
Stage 2.2: (Stage 0 get safety gear!!!!!!)
Gloves, Extinguisher, Shoes, Seats, Good Harness bar, Harness & Hans. RPM Roll bar is nice or get one fabricated in place of harness bar; make sure they place that fabs it is familiar with SCCA and NASA rules.
Stage 3: CAMS??? Pointless if your going to some day go FI. |
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GTR TT 493Whp/431lbft, Ecutek, Southbend 6puck,Quaife, RPM RollBar 4Point, R888R, JRZ RSPro F(10R/10C) R(10R/6C) 1000f500r inlbs+150inlbs Tender, SPL everywhere. Full Specs
Last edited by 2011 Nismo#91; 01-13-2021 at 10:54 AM.
Reason: spelling and stuff
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