Quote:
Originally Posted by Spooler
What rear springs do you have on your truetype coilovers. They need to be much less. 5-6k springs.
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I've got 5k swifts on the true rear kit. I'm fully aware of how the wheel rate is about .5 to 1 on a Z and the oem springs are basically double the rate for the same feel as a true rear strut spring.
Quote:
Originally Posted by OptionZero
reading this thread is making my head hurt
There's no way -2 camber the cause of "horrible ride quality." I have Aragosta coils with 14/10 rates (middle settings all around), full SPL arms, factory bushings, and 20 inch wheels, my ride quality is absolutely fine.
I've had other people, non Z people drive and ride in the car, zero complaints. Its firmer than stock but bumps and road imperfections are well managed. This is with street specs running much lower than a track car would, as its geared towards appearance . . . and its still fine
Refer to the factory specs here and the rear camber isn't even off by that much:
Stock alignment specs?
There is no way to adjust front anything without adjustable arms. There is minimal adjustment in the rear. For optimal alignment, you need all three rear arms and a competent alignment tech
I don't know how much reading you did, clearly not enough. I personally have posted endlessly that that anyone with coilovers MUST get adjustable arms, with the SPL ones most recommended because they never break, they're easy to adjust ON CAR, and they have manufacturer support.
What i do not see addressed in this thread are your tires. What tires are you running, what size, and what is the condition? |
yeah, I was hoping to hear something like this. the front and rear toe is in range of manufacturers specs, and camber is only off by tenths of a degree which makes it hard to believe just that alone would cause so much instability over regular street imperfections. I'm just not experienced enough to be confident that its just the alignment at fault here. But, then I'm also not sure if you guys that are running the aragostas (which are almost 3 times the price) is the reason you aren't complaining about ride quality. But BC is super popular in the community so I also can't imagine they are the reason either.
I'm running stock tires all around. Got the car brand new back in June and I still only have 3k miles on it lol. BUT..... since I spent a ton of time trying to settle on a setup I liked, I drove around without an alignment enough to chew my tread down pretttttty bad. I know I know, but in a way I'm almost glad I'll be able to get rid of these crap tires soon. Here's the current status:
Stock Bridgestone Potenzas
Front: 245/40/19 @ 40-50% tread and 32psi
Rear: 275/35/19 @ 10-15% tread and 34psi
EDIT: yes, as Spooler pointed out, the instability im talking about is mostly darting and tramlining where the car kind of jolts to the side following a weird bump in the road or going over painted lettering that's slightly raised on the road will even cause me to grip the wheel hard to maintain a straight drive which blows my mind. I may actually go snap some pics of some bumps I know cause this pretty badly to give you guys an idea of what I mean. This is all at normal driving speeds too, nothing crazy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by OptionZero
this is an absolute must read as it explains why true type rears require roughly half the spring rate as non-true/divorced type
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yup, fully aware of this. My oem kit I currently have on is at 8k that came with the bc kit, and the true rear kit I had before this was using a 5k swift.
Quote:
Originally Posted by OptionZero
I dunno how many times i gotta tell people not to get Z1 and to get the ******* SPLs
do it right the first time or don't do it
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I'll admit I was in a rush to get something to allow me to align the car (its my dd) and couldn't really understand just by quickly skimming the descriptions, photos, and feedback why there would actually be a difference. Clearly I was wrong. Lesson learned.