Same issue on my 2014... but it really cost me.
So it started doing the idle drop thing, but I thought that was because the transmission had been replaced and I honestly just decided since going through that whole process I'm not going back to a nissan dealer unless its an issue that prevents me from driving.
So one day on the way home from work, got food, got back in the car, and had this horrendous smell. Turns out my RF amp and sub both self destructed. I'd noticed lower voltage than normal on and off over the preceding few weeks, but it would go back to above 14v most of the time.
After the amp/sub both self destructed, and letting the car sit and air out from the fumes produced, the car wouldn't even start. It only sat for two days.
Got the 6 year old battery replaced and all has been perfect since then.
Moral: If you have an older battery and run a few subs, even professionally installed, there's an added risk. Better to get the battery replaced ahead of time or tested as soon as any symptoms show up... As much as RF says if in an under current or voltage scenario the amp will self protect, that's wonderful except in cases where it doesn't do it fast enough and destroys the sub.
So I was out:
a new battery
new amp <--- luckily I Have a new RF amp, a much bigger one sitting on standby
new sub <---- will likely just have a custom box done for the spare tire area since there are a lot of thugs/wanna be thugs in phoenix.
So: Don't be like me!! get the battery checked and replaced
ahead of time, so this way you save yourself from other possible related issues. Mine had zero issues starting up each day, the only real symptom was as others have mentioned, the rolling into a complete stop and subsequent RPM drop.
This is the FIRST time in 30 years of aftermarket car stereo use I've ever had an amp or sub go bad on me, and had both installed professionally, and both are reputable brands: RF amp, JL 10w3 sub. Clipping is a killer, and so is my boneheaded move to not just get the battery replaced sooner as preventative maint.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 16valve
I had this same problem and in my case a new battery was the fix. After 52,000 miles and 3.5 years the crappy stock battery was done. The car would seem like it was going to stall out when stopping at an intersection. I read this thread and discovered about the maintenance Required battery. After adding 1 1/2 cups of distilled water to get my battery back to level, the idling problem was much better, but I could still see the volts fluctuating. I had the battery tested and it was done. I have a new Optima battery now and all is good.
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