Quote:
Originally Posted by Alienpoker
Meh. Just buy this part. It replaces the lock with a box that talks to the BCM =>ECU so the car starts, but it no longer locks the steering wheel. This is the genuine fix Nissan is doing.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Ignitio...e/352226882999
Part costs like $70... Part number is: 48708-9N00A |
OK. In one sentence, it works. You do not have to pay Nissan $1,000 for the fix they offer. You have options. Here’s a long explanation of what I have found.
The part number which failed on my 2010 370Z Nismo with 52,000 on the clock:
48700-JF00C-B1-01 date: 16/02/10 So that’s Rev. C I believe.
It failed on Feb 10th 2020. I parked and then 2hrs later I was stranded. Towed home by CSAA, where it sat like a lump while I figured out what to do next. Luckily my AA membership covers the towing costs.
My part was Not currently covered by Nissan Voluntary Service Campaign (VSC) #P3208 Ref: NTB-13-014. Although it lists the following vehicles:
2009-2010 370Z (Z34)
2009-2011 GTR (R35)
I can’t see anything on the document to say my vehicle is specifically excluded. But as I an ‘out if warranty’ I don’t have a great argument, although I tried. Several times.
I have reported the to Nissan corporate through ‘Customer Service’. They basically told me I had to pay ‘out of pocket’ to fix my car, And unless they issued a VSC (or recall) that covered my particular year, model and VIN they would NOT help with the costs.
What Nissan recommended:
Tow the vehicle to us. The Nissan dealer offered that they would ‘waive’ the diagnostic fee of like $140. IF I towed it there and agreed to let them fix it for around $800 +tax. From what I can tell, the part they claim to replace may still fail again in future (although the part may be within warranty at that point).
They claim:
1. That they have to diagnose the fault- they won’t accept that I know the part has failed.
2. My only option is to let them fix it, and then perhaps get reimbursed in future from Nissan USA. I didn’t buy the car from Nissan USA, I bought it from the Nissan dealer. They should stand behind cars they sell.
3. They claim both key fobs would need to be ‘reprogrammed’ at an additional cost to me.
My fix and what I found.
A. Buy Nissan OEM part. p/n: 48708-9N00A
Interchange part number: 487089N00A
Cost is about $62.00 I got free shipping.
Available from Nissan distributors and on eBay. It’s an OEM part, but I can’t say what a Nissan Parts Counter would charge. If they would even supply one.
B. According to Reggie.Keith there is a more expensive Dorman ‘fix for ESCL fault’ p/n: 601037. I haven’t seen a writeup, but assume it works or you can ask fir your money back. See:
https://youtu.be/wc4LK8OMuL0
Rockauto.com price is about $300, plus tax and shipping, once you put it in the cart the price went down for me from
The info blurb says they fail when the gear teeth wear out:
All Dorman's Steering Column Lock Actuators are engineered from high-quality materials for a long service life.
Features & Benefits:
• Upgraded replacement - this steering column lock actuator features several enhancements to increase reliability over the factory design
• Improved durability - internal gear teeth made of stronger compound for longer service life
• Enhanced technology - updated software adjusts gear speed and minimized teeth wear in future
• Easy installation - includes programmer and bolts for straightforward replacement.
I chose fix A. $62 shipped. It even came with the ‘break away’ security bolts. I did not use these as it doesn’t actually lock the steering column anymore.
I replaced the part, ensured the ESCL 10A fuse was in place and pressed start. It worked. I have not had to reprogram my key fobs. It took me two weeks to research the problem fully, order the right part and replace it.
You DO get the reassuring ‘whirring noise’ when you press Start, and again when you turn off the engine and open the drivers door to leave the car. So I believe it’s actuating switched with a motor. But there is no deadbolt which moves to actuate the steering column lock. It should last longer for this reason alone. It also had a plastic top case, rather than full metal protection around the entire part.
Option B Does lock your steering column and Does have an odbc ‘dongle’ which they claim is able to reprogram your key fobs. So if you fesr you may need that, pay the extra money. It is also completely metal and comes with the ‘break away’ security bolts. I have NOT tested this solution, although others have. It offers more security arguably for the $300. Still cheaper than the Nissan Dealer Service repair, although you have little chance of reimbursement of your $300+.
Probably my final post on this issue, provided the fault now goes away. I’m leaving the fuse in place, as I like the ‘whirring sound’ it’s comforting. My belief is that the motor may need to run in fix A for the switches to open & close properly. That’s what the BCM expects to ‘see’ when it handshakes with the ESCL and then tells the ECU that the car can start. I don’t wish to cut wires on my Z, or disable functions that were factory programmed into the start-up sequence.
👾👽 AlienPoker 👽 👾