Tuesday night -
Started off by coating the DEI wrap with DEI's silicon sealant. I'm not using it for the high temp application, as the DEI titanium wrap should be sufficient, but apparently it does a good job sealing and preserving the wrap. Not much to say about this yet, I'll let you know if it works.
Next project on the list was the removal of the OEM Oil Cooler from the 2012+ models. This is one area where the BP kit instructions could be improved, since it does not discuss the factory oil cooler even peripherally. I had a couple advantages here because, having played around with this stuff before, I sort of thought it might be a problem. I had preemptively ordered the oil filter stud for a 2009-2011 model from Z1, part number 15213-31U00, as well as an extra container of coolant. Good thing.
As most of you are probably aware, the OEM oil cooler uses coolant cycled through the same plate on the oil pan to which the oil filter is connected. The coolant cycles into this plate from a hard line running across the front of the engine from the drivers side, moves back across the front of the engine and into the engine somewhere near the terminus of the drivers side header.
Conveniently, during the install of my long tube headers, I had blocked off that lower terminus with a plate Fast Intentions includes with their header kit on one end, and capped off the lower pipe. (Note on this: I know some of the FI kits come with a hose instead to allow you to keep the factory oil cooler, but mine did not because I bought it used).
I did shoot a couple texts to JC Hammond, who provided the attached helpful diagram of what needs to be capped off to actually remove the factory cooler. I also did manage to spray myself in the face with coolant. Quick high level:
1) Remove hose from Upper Cap area (see 3rd attachment). Either cap off that coolant pipe AND the lower hard pipe, or bridge to the lower hard pipe. Your goal is to stop yourself from spraying coolant everywhere. Good luck.
2) Remove oil filter stud, and disconnect lines running into plate. Oil filter stud took either a 22mm or 23mm socket. Can't recall, but it was large. Remove plate entirely - don't forget the gasket (it may stick to the oil pan).
3) Install Nissan OEM oil filter stud. Your BP turbo kit plate + stud will attach to that.
4) Celebrate by having a shower, this time not in coolant.
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2014 370z Touring Sport Magma Red MT // BP Single Turbo 6467 // 63mm TB's // Z1 Ported Upper Mani // RJM Pedal // Zspeed Stage 3 Clutch // 526 WHP, 451 WTQ
2006 350z (Sold) // 1990 300zx (Sold) // 1985 300zx 2+2 (Sold)
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