Nissan 370Z Forum - View Single Post - Fast Intentions Stage 2 TT build by MA-Motorsports.

BGTV8 · 12-29-2019, 10:59 PM

Sad to see the news ............

If you are going to start again, start with an R35 (VR38) block .....

Can I also suggest that you need two tunes in the car .... one with "enough" boost for fun-DD and another for "mega-grin factor".

There was a time when I had to build 3 race engines (starting with new blocks following catasrophic engine failure) in one season before biting the bullet and retiring the wet sump and going dry-sump, so I understand the frustration. I eventually stepped out of competition for the season and spent time researching and "building it right". I had some really robust conversations with my engine-builder and lots of phone calls and discussions with others who had been down my road (my race engine was based on the Buick 215 alloy V8 which was the genesis of the Repco-Brabham F1 engine in the 60's) and I found a heap of research available. Not wishing to say anything about MA but there are a few guys here in Oz who run VQ35HR TT engines in off-road buggies and they all run 600-700 HP for extended WoT). Check out the Finke Desert Race as an example of arduous duty - but these guys limit their boost to aid reliability hence my suggestion for 2 tunes - OR start with a VR block. There is a shop in South Australia who are doing a billet VR block but it is a serious investment.

Blowing the bottom hose off suggests you've got boost/combustion pressure into the water jacket so head gasket clamping pressure is the key and I suspect a VQ block - even with closed deck sleeves is never going to be 100%.

Hence the suggestion of a VR38 block as the basis of doing it again.

Two quotes to remember ...

"Good luck with your project"

and

Look after SWMBO unless you want to find out how much your half of the house is worth !!!

12-29-2019, 10:59 PM	#1977 (permalink)
BGTV8 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: 03350 Australia Posts: 1,514 Drives: 09 Nissan 370Z M6 Rep Power: 39973	Sad to see the news ............ If you are going to start again, start with an R35 (VR38) block ..... Can I also suggest that you need two tunes in the car .... one with "enough" boost for fun-DD and another for "mega-grin factor". There was a time when I had to build 3 race engines (starting with new blocks following catasrophic engine failure) in one season before biting the bullet and retiring the wet sump and going dry-sump, so I understand the frustration. I eventually stepped out of competition for the season and spent time researching and "building it right". I had some really robust conversations with my engine-builder and lots of phone calls and discussions with others who had been down my road (my race engine was based on the Buick 215 alloy V8 which was the genesis of the Repco-Brabham F1 engine in the 60's) and I found a heap of research available. Not wishing to say anything about MA but there are a few guys here in Oz who run VQ35HR TT engines in off-road buggies and they all run 600-700 HP for extended WoT). Check out the Finke Desert Race as an example of arduous duty - but these guys limit their boost to aid reliability hence my suggestion for 2 tunes - OR start with a VR block. There is a shop in South Australia who are doing a billet VR block but it is a serious investment. Blowing the bottom hose off suggests you've got boost/combustion pressure into the water jacket so head gasket clamping pressure is the key and I suspect a VQ block - even with closed deck sleeves is never going to be 100%. Hence the suggestion of a VR38 block as the basis of doing it again. Two quotes to remember ... "Good luck with your project" and Look after SWMBO unless you want to find out how much your half of the house is worth !!!