08-27-2019, 12:30 AM
|
#9 (permalink)
|
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Ga
Posts: 13,830
Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z
Rep Power: 2684392
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by scruffydog
Thank you all for helping out. It's nice to have such a good community.
I finally got the Z1 CSC Elimination Kit working.
To let you guys know how I came about the solution, I did 2 things - I don't exactly know which one of the process fixed the problem but I'll share what I did.
1) Removed Helper Spring
I followed the instructions to remove the helper spring. Though I'm not sure what this did (As it seemed more like a recommendation rather than a requirement). I later installed it back, so it's safe to say having it does not prevent the kit from working. I suspect this wasn't really the root cause. However, this helper spring does prevent the pedal from springing back to rest position if there's not sufficient amount of clutch pressure. The clutch pedal requires quite a sufficient amount of back pressure to overcome the spring.
2) Bleeding the Z1 Clutch Slave Cylinder
I know a lot of you guys suggest it had to do with adjusting the length of the extension rod of the slave. I can 100% say that has very little to nothing to do with why that didn't solve my problem. I would say this section the instruction manual was really horribly written. It says nothing on how to bleed the slave cylinder. I've adjusted the slave from full length to shortest yet still unable to get the air out of the system.
I didn't give up after trying many hours because I suspect the slave was good as it didn't leak any fluid out. However, I did come to a major discovery.
The hole where the adjustment/extension rod threads into actually sucks air in to the piston (Non-fluid side). Recall when I had fully clamped down the slave with a clamp and got full pedal again? and when I released it and the piston extended back out and the pedal went dead?
So I plugged my fingers over the hole after taken out the extended stud and cycled the piston and pushed both the fluid and air out the clutch fluid reservoir. This was a random surprise because I got fluid overflowing from the reservoir as it's topped off and uncapped. But I was happy to know after doing that, and then did gravity bleed. That alone fixed the problem. After that, I just to make sure, I also did the clutch pedal pump, bleed (1 person) by jamming a jack lever to the driver seat, it didn't really make much of a difference since gravity bleed did 95%+ if not all of the job of getting air out of the system.
After I got a solid clutch pedal, I was super happy. I got the car started and had to get the car back on the lift to make a slight tweak to the adjustment rod to reduce the length so the clutch could properly disengage without having to depress all the way down to the floor to shift. As a matter of fact, my 1st adjustment was so bad, I could still hear the gear having trouble shifting as it wasn't depressing the clutch enough.
Any how, I got it adjusted to where it was before. My clutch is definitely much heavier. Not sure if it's due to the new Z1 clutch kit (Not the road race one) or if it's related to this style of clutch mechanism (with throw out fork & slave) vs the Concentric Slave Cylinder makes the pedal much firmer.
Just happy to have this done and hope others will find this thread useful as I found no information on this topic. And the Z1 guys weren't very helpful with my situation.
|
The heavy clutch is due to the pressure plate. I have a stock feeling triple disk clutch. It has an external slave conversion also that was made by the clutch manufacturer, ATS.
|
|
|