Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty
I can remove the bushings in about 20 minutes.
To install the bushing. I use 1/2" all thread, about 10" long. Double nut the one end. 3 thick 1/2" washers on both ends. 2 pieces of 3/8" thick 4"x4" plate with a 1/2" hole in the center.
Put 3 washers on the double nut end of all thread, then 1 of the 4x4 squares. Put that though the hole and the bushing, from the rear. In the front. Now install the other 4x4 piece, then the 3 washers, and then the nut.
It should look like this. 1 nut, 3 washers, 4x4 plate, bushing, frame, 4x4 plate, 3 washers, double nut.
Put your wrench on the double nut, and another wrench on the front nut and start to tighten down. The wrench in the rear. You can leave it rest on the body when tightening. You don't have to hold it. The front nut. You may have to do what is called double wrenching. That's where you take one wrench and place the box end into the open end of the wrench the is on the nut. What you are doing is making the wrench longer for more torque.
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Ok, So I think Im doing pretty much what youve described with a couple differences, but same concept:
I have a 6" 1/2" bolt going from front to back, followed by a couple washers, then a 4"x4" (or maybe 3.5 x 3.5) galvanized plate. Then bushing frame. On the other side of the frame is the bushing itself, then the metal plate from one of the front bushings, 3 washers and a nut.
I have a passthrough ratchet wrench holding the nut (and letting it rest on the car frame as Im tightening the bolt), and enough space underneath with the QJ so I can use an 18" breaker bar. But the torque im pulling on the bolt when Im tightening must be 50-60 ft/lbs, if not more. Pretty exhausting.