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1325 · 01-16-2019, 10:03 AM

Sorry to revive an old thread, but I figured since I had to tackle this a couple days ago that I’d add my two cents in. I purchased a refurbished steering rack from Z1 Motorsports which came with everything but the outer tie rods (it even came with new locking nuts so I didn’t have to reuse the old ones). Here are some tips of mine:

Spray some penetrating lubricant on the return line nut that attaches to the steering rack assembly, then tackle it with a flare nut wrench through the driver side wheel well. It is accessible and doable, so that when it is time to drop the assembly you won’t risk damaging any lines. Especially if you’re wanting to send your core item back with miminal damage. High pressure line is accessible from the bottom, using a 3/8 inch ratchet, 3” extension, a swivel joint, and (I believe) a 14mm flare nut wrench head.

Ensure that if you don’t have a tool to keep your steering wheel straight throughout the install process, that you regularly check to see if it is straight. If not, straighten before you reattach the pinch bolt that connects the pinion to the steering shaft.

Don’t forget to undo the harness clip that leads from the rack assembly toward the front of the vehicle. It is held on by a zip tie that will need to be removed between the rack and where the harnesses connect.

Also, as the OP stated, tackle the outer 17 mm bolts with 19 mm nuts first, then the inner 17 mm bolts that hold the steering rack bracket in place. Upon reinstall, fasten the inner bolts first to keep the rack situated while you work on reattaching the two hard lines and steering shaft. The rack assembly will still have plenty of play to accommodate this process until you’re ready to fasten the outer bolts.

When trying to rotate the outer tie rod ends off and/or trying to undo the locking nuts, I had to use a propane torch to get then to budge. After heating about 20-30 seconds, they came off with ease. Penetrating lube did not work here when I tried.

It was my first time dealing with a repair of this kind and it took 6 hours, so definitely set aside time and clear out your schedule if this is your only method of transportation. Tell the wife to go on a long shopping spree, lol. Hope this helps others!

01-16-2019, 10:03 AM	#7 (permalink)
1325 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Florida Posts: 287 Drives: 10 370Z BLK 6M Rep Power: 15	Sorry to revive an old thread, but I figured since I had to tackle this a couple days ago that I’d add my two cents in. I purchased a refurbished steering rack from Z1 Motorsports which came with everything but the outer tie rods (it even came with new locking nuts so I didn’t have to reuse the old ones). Here are some tips of mine: Spray some penetrating lubricant on the return line nut that attaches to the steering rack assembly, then tackle it with a flare nut wrench through the driver side wheel well. It is accessible and doable, so that when it is time to drop the assembly you won’t risk damaging any lines. Especially if you’re wanting to send your core item back with miminal damage. High pressure line is accessible from the bottom, using a 3/8 inch ratchet, 3” extension, a swivel joint, and (I believe) a 14mm flare nut wrench head. Ensure that if you don’t have a tool to keep your steering wheel straight throughout the install process, that you regularly check to see if it is straight. If not, straighten before you reattach the pinch bolt that connects the pinion to the steering shaft. Don’t forget to undo the harness clip that leads from the rack assembly toward the front of the vehicle. It is held on by a zip tie that will need to be removed between the rack and where the harnesses connect. Also, as the OP stated, tackle the outer 17 mm bolts with 19 mm nuts first, then the inner 17 mm bolts that hold the steering rack bracket in place. Upon reinstall, fasten the inner bolts first to keep the rack situated while you work on reattaching the two hard lines and steering shaft. The rack assembly will still have plenty of play to accommodate this process until you’re ready to fasten the outer bolts. When trying to rotate the outer tie rod ends off and/or trying to undo the locking nuts, I had to use a propane torch to get then to budge. After heating about 20-30 seconds, they came off with ease. Penetrating lube did not work here when I tried. It was my first time dealing with a repair of this kind and it took 6 hours, so definitely set aside time and clear out your schedule if this is your only method of transportation. Tell the wife to go on a long shopping spree, lol. Hope this helps others! Last edited by 1325; 01-23-2019 at 10:43 PM.