Quote:
Originally Posted by jchammond
I’ve done 2 so far & didn’t cut either one,,,just pulled them out with “Large Hardware” ... I’d like to say the 2nd one was easier- but my DA left an important piece at home while packing. I don’t rule out making a cut in the future/ as either Nissan puts some kinda glue on outer shell or they slide the bushing in while paint is wet on cross member.
I’m gonna put together a setup that won’t fail,,,even though the cross member isn’t truly flat/ I’ll compensate for that.
Someone mentioned about “freezing” the new solid bushing before installation & probably would have helped for sure.  |
I got JL's out in less then 25 minutes. Took more time in getting the tools and sliding under the car then knocking it out. I used a 2" carbide tip hole saw to remove the center section.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-2...00CT/301697691
Then used my sawall to put 3 relief cuts in the outer shell. Next was my muffler pipe splitter tool on the air chisel. Next I used a 60grit flapper wheel to polish the inside of the hole to remove any burrs that may have been inside the hole.
https://www.lehighvalleyabrasives.co...CABEgJAfvD_BwE
The SPL bushings. I have put both of them in the freezer overnight. But they need to be in dry ice for best effect. JL's was poly and couldn't chill it. Pressing the poly in. I had to come up with something different because it wanted to squeeze out.
The hole on the frame isn't perfectly round either. From welding. It's egg shaped. When the factory installs the bushing. They might use boiled linseed oil. When wet, it's a lube, dries as lock tite.
The Z1 bushing remover tool takes too much time and energy. If you don't have a muffler tool. It might be you best option.
The bushing has 2 chambers that hold the silicone fluid. And it's under pressure. So when you start to cut. It will squirt some distance.