Quote:
Originally Posted by shadow85
I mentioned before I have PSS 275/35R19 on the rear.
When you guys say do I heat it up before the pulls, I do maybe some normal driving for about 15 minutes before the pulls and it was a cold night. Is that enough?
Reason why I think something is wrong with my setup, is because all the other boosted guys that I speak to don't seem to complain about the car doing scary sideways **** very abruptly like mine does
Like when I go fast, it literally feels like somebody is violently pulling my steering wheel to one side. Its not kool... ;(
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So, when I am in my race car (which is the equivalent of what you have now), I get a warm-up lap before forming up on the grid.
If you've watched SuperCars or AUS GT on the tele, you will see really abrupt steering inputs weaving side to side and on the gas then hard on the brakes repeatedly in 2nd gear to get heat into the brakes which soaks very quickly into the wheel and then the tyre.
This heat is what gives grip
Any road tyre construction/compound is designed to dissipate heat because heat kills tyre life. So - regardless of your tyre selection, UNLESS you have 100 or 80 TWI where the compromise is reversed because the tyre maker is biasing heavily towards grip and not tyre life, you will be grip limited and getting heat into one of these tyres can take 10 minutes of hard work.
Even the PSS is only a uber-premium road tyre and "not really" that sticky.
Stickey is an ADVAN A050 or DZ03G or R888 and they need a warm-up procedure like I have described AND they will be licky to give you 1000km life being used on the road before they turn to battery cases due to heat cycles.
To generate some heat and therefore grip, emulate pukka race drivers - but I have to tell you that doing this on a public road - even a quiet industrial estate - will be a cop-magnet and I suspect that SAPOL have similar nanny-state rule to Vic and if they deem you are "hooning", then you car gets a 30-day holiday and maybe a canary defect notice to be put back to standard.
A 500+hp and 1400kg car with effectively an open diff (VLSD is a PoS) will always step sideways when it breaks loose so this needs attention soon (more expense).
You need some driver coaching I reckon AND a decent diff - without getting equal torque to both rear wheels you are going to have continuing problems.
Talk to someone in a CAMS affiliated car club about driver training - or call Naomi Maltby at Sporting Car Club of SA to find out what they do
The other thing is to make sure your front and rear alignments are in spec AND tyre pressures are around 32-34psi.
Finally the 370Z gets quite a lot of camber gain in squat which can mean that all your torque gets transmitted to the road thru the inside half of the tyre, but now we are into a whole different world of suspension tuning which if carried to its logical extreme will make the car a pig to drive ....... heavier sprints is the brute force solution but shocks that can be stiffened up so slow-speed bump and softer for high speed bump are the optimum (but figure these at 2K per corner)
You are in the process of learning the expensive lesson of double the torque in an OEM chassis simply requires more changes and expense. to make it liveable
I've seen guys in Vic tip mega money into their Z34 and out the end of it, realised they could have purchased a 4-6 yo GTR and had a better car.
I have a PM in my archive somewhere, where I cautioned against FI because the initial investment is less than half that which is required to make it work properly.
So - think about driver training (which won't be cheap BTW - consumeables are exactly that - and you chew thru them at a fair rate).
I think I am now done on this thread