I'll admit that there were certain aspects of the install and the item itself that I was less than impressed with, especially for the price paid (to say the least):
1) There were no instructions included. Although I was able to figure out 90% of the install, the other 10% I wouldn't have been able to without both Nik @ Soho and Donatas @ Coolerworx helping out. But, to caveat that: the customer service from both was OUTSTANDING
2) I believe this part to be the same used for the 350Z, although I could be wrong. The reason I say this because the plate (that the assembly connects to/Step 3 from my previous post) BARELY fits the 370Z, but does not as one would expect... again, for the price paid. The plate is barely large enough to cover the transmission tunnel opening and the holes do not lineup with those from the 370. Because of this, you will need to drill holes into the tunnel to mount the shifter to the vehicle. Also, it does not include the hardware needed once the holes are drilled (8mm bolts/washers/nuts btw).
* I've spoken with Donatas @ Coolerworx and expressed my displeasure with certain aspects of the product. He informed me that he's continuing to update the product and I'll be sending him the measurements/dimensions of the bolts so that he can make a proper plate that will not require drilling. So, once again, great customer service and a great guy to deal with.
So, to continue from my previous post, I was able to install the shifter yesterday so onto the continuation of the install...
4) The next step will be removing the stock shifter (or in my case my TWM short shifter). Instructions can be found here:
DIY: NST Short Shifter Install [PICTURE HEAVY]
*all credit goes to Mozen for the DIY
...everything will be removed, and nothing will be reused other than the bolt connecting the shifter to the linkage.
5) You will need to remove part of the exhaust for this part.... From under the car, you will need to remove the shift brace (again, don't know the technical term) by removing two 12mm bolts on the side and two 12mm bolts on top. The two on the side aren't too difficult but the two on top... no words can describe how much a PITA these were to remove. All I can say is I hope you have small hands and a lot of patience.
...anyway, once the bolts are removed (or loosened on top since there's not enough physical space to remove them). The brace can be rotated around the transmission and removed.
6) ...with the brace removed, you can begin installing the Coolerworx assembly. You'll have to center it as much as possible and mark the tunnel (I connected the linkage for this part, then disconnected it again to drill the holes). Because the bolts I had laying around were 10mm, I ended up having to drill the plate to enlarge the holes. Be sure to do rust protection afterwards!!
7) Drill your holes, insert bolts/washers/nuts (you'll probably need someone on the other side to hold the bolt) and voilą
* You can choose to reuse the shift boot, I chose not to since I like the somewhat "industrial" look the assembly gives although I could stand to organize my wires a bit better.
8) Last but not least, the lockout and reverse. Using the other ziplock bag with the two m1/2 nuts/bolts. Pull them out and [barely] thread the nuts onto the bolts, then thread the bolts into the threaded holes on the Coolerworx assembly next to where the reverse lockout pin is. Shift to 1st then thread the nuts (on the left side) in so that the nut sits against the lockout bolt, shift to 2nd and make sure that there's no interference. Once that step is done tighten the nut against the bolt so that the it is secure. Repeat for 5th/6th.
* For those wanting to lockout 5th, you will do the same except instead of using 5th/6th, you will use 3rd/4th. There may be a way to lockout reverse as well, however the instructions provided by Coolerworx didn't specify how (similar to what I was saying previously about locking out groups of gears instead of individual ones).
