*Update*!!!
So my tuner helped me find out some important information regarding 1700x ID and 1300x ID [vs] 1050x ID. He found out that for my current applications -- because I am not running serious power with the current mods I am about to put into my vehicle, it is best I have 1050x ID's rather than 1300x ID or the 1700x ID.
The reason for this is because it is the physical limitation of the injectors.
The minimum amount of fuel will release too much for what my applications are at the moment even at the smallest pulses. ECUtek tuning cannot compensate and control it in this case, and so it is best I go for the 1050x ID's for now.
Once I upgrade to serious power, then it will be appropriate for me to purchase 1300s / 1700s and I can sell the 1050x ID's for cheap to someone else who may need them! Yay!
I also found out I won't be needing an oil cooler just yet, until I start seeing constant temperatures above 220+ (F).
As for a Transmission cooler, I will be putting that to the side as well because I will be replacing the entire transmission with a new custom built one from Level 10 Transmissions sometime next year.
For now I will be running 91 Octane in the beginning when my car is first repaired / upgraded hopefully in late April / Early May!
After it runs smoothly, I will upgrade the fuel system with the CJM S1-SE fuel return system in conjunction with a twin fuel pump, two hydramats, and twin walbro 450 setup.
My tuner said having two fuel pumps will definitely run the fuel a lot hotter which could be a serious issue, so I will have to find some way to keep it cool when running the twin fuel pump module from CJM -- If anyone has any ideas please let me know
Also, my tuner also said the A2A kit will lose some boost pressure being the A2A kit that it is, but that's okay as long as I can run the car safely while still pushing it the furthest it can go,
I spoke to Kyle from IPP regarding upgrading the rev limiter and how to do so with the stage 4, 11.0:1 Compression Ratio engine that I have being built. He suggested I get the ATI stock size pulley if I wanted to do so, and that's what I did -- purchased that pulley yesterday night.
I also found out that the engine harmonics will remain similar to the original stock engine -- so the knock sensitivity does not need to be recalibrated. And I know that our stock 370z engines use I beam rods which is good for higher RPMs, whereas Kyle from IPP uses H beam rods -- so I asked him if it would affect the rev limiter at all and if I should lower it or if it was safe to keep it the same. He said it could stay the same, so that's good.
Hopefully this information is able to help others out there who may be wondering similar / same things either now or in the future!
Thank you for reading!