FINAL UPDATE ON THIS TOPIC - So it was indeed the clutch interlock switch or clutch switch for short. Upon pulling the switch, squirting a shot of WD-40 in there and working the switch and the connection a few times, she has started up like a champ, no hesitation at all the entire weekend.
Will order a replacement switch to have on hand for when it acts up again and I can just replace it with a new part. Thank SouthArk 370Z for the tip!
So as a primer for anyone on how to do this, since the info isn't generally available on here in too many spots (that I could find while searching the site- no how to's) here is a brief written guide.
Quick recap - I had already done the fuse delete for the ESCL prior to this repair. Symptom was intermittently and randomly failing to start while properly cycling through the pre-ignition series as seen on the starter button.
1) To locate the switch get into the pedal area and when you push the pedal down with your hand you will see the "push button" style switch being engaged. Look for the blue connection or google image search for it.
2) To remove this you will need a 17mm wrench and a small pair of vise grips or any pliers to grip the thin metal bracket on which this switch is mounted.
The mounting bracket will want to bend somewhat from the force being applied to loosen the nut holding the switch in place. You will rotate the nut counterclockwise (someone out there has asked already!).
---NOTE--- I have the RJM clutch pedal assembly installed, so the gauge of the steel used in the OEM clutch may be heavier and not be prone to bending, just be aware.
3) I would advise visually noting where the bracket is at the bottom of the pedal stroke so you can realign the button of the switch if the bracket does indeed bend when you loosen the nut.
4) Completely remove the nut, remove the switch from the harness and either A) install new switch (approx $18 OEM) or, B) spray contact cleaner onto the connection and down into the switch button. Work the switch in and out of the harness several times as well as depress the button several times to assist in cleaning the contact points.
5) Now reassemble, check the alignment and adjust as necessary.
Your Z should fire right up if this switch was your issue.
--- Note -- if you fully depress your clutch pedal and then hear a single clicking sound coming from the pedal area, you are out of alignment and that is the switch button popping out from under the pedal. This happened to be because of being misaligned.
---- Note that sometimes the keyless entry gets screwy when you mess around with electrical. I had a the dashboard "KEY" light up and I had to place my fob in the fobgina to get it to finally start up, but no problems since.
It was just coincidence that my ESCL started failing and my clutch switch started failing within a couple of weeks of each other, and may indeed have even overlapped symptoms. The symptoms are identical in the way the car will progress through the starting cycle but never turn over the engine.
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2010 40th Anniversary #564 || NISMO CBE || Hankook Ventus V12 Evo2s || RJM Clutch Pedal Assembly
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