Nissan 370Z Forum - View Single Post

rambunctious · 11-03-2017, 08:25 PM

Alright, so recently my power steering rack start leaking from one of the boots and I needed to replacement. Couldn't find any online sources that showed how to do it, but i was able to tackle it over the course of 3 days after work by looking at the service manual.

will update over the course of next week as i group pictures and recollect everything I did.

Tools Needed:

Turkey baster or syringe with a hose end
Steering Wheel Holder (https://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-6640...dp/B0002UNRB2/)
2lb hammer
Large needle nose plier
10mm socket
15mm socket
17mm socket
17mm wrench
19mm socket
19mm wrench
Drain pan
Vice grips
Breaker Bar or Impact Gun (helps breaks bolts easier)
Blue Loctite
Torque wrench

Replacement Parts:
New Power Steering Rack (note there is a difference between the manual & automatic version) - I chose to buy mine refurbished online. You can pick up a used for cheaper.
New Tie Rod ends (if worn or you can reuse the existing ones)
Cotter Pin (Link)
Part Number: 4932503E0A - PORT ASSY-DRAIN,POWER STEERING
Part Number: 4974501E00 - SEAL-O RING
Dextron VI - ATF 1 Qt

Hopefully this will help out some folks:

Step 1: Try to put the steering wheel as straight as possible and then use the steering wheel holder to keep it in place.

Step 2: Open up the Power Steering Reservoir and try to pull out all the fluid using a turkey baster or other removal tool

Step 3: Loosen up any wheel locks and loosen up any lug nuts.

Step 4: Jack up your car.

Step 5: Remove front plastic splash guard.

Step 6: Remove tie rods linkage by first removing the cotter pin (#1 in the diagram below) on top of the castle nut. I used a needle nose plier to unwrap the the cotter pin and whole lot of pulling

Step 7: Break loose the castlenut (#3 in the image above) with a 17mm socket (i believe its a 17mm socket).

Step 8: Now you have the get the tie rod out of the knuckle. There are two ways to go about this:

a) Spin the castle nut to the top of the tie rod bolt and using your 2lb hammer pound it from the top down

b) Hit the steering knuckle as highlighted in the picture below. I found this method to be the fastest.

Step 9: Now is also a good time to remove the tie rod locking nut at the end. If you are replacing the tie rods with new tie rods, then you can skip this step.

Go ahead and put the tie rod end back into the knuckle and loosely tighten with the castle nut. Then proceed to break loose the tie rod locking nut. Its much easier to break it loose now, than it is to break it loose later.

Step 10: Remove the suspension member stay held on by 8 bolts. Note some of them have washers, so be careful to catch them as they fall. See the image below for a picture of this.

Step 11: Before we proceed to drain the power steering line, we are going to need to unclip the power steering harness from the plug. It should be attached towards the front of the frame, also in front of the steering rack.

Step 12: Draining the power steering from the rest of the lines. (Note: There will some fluid stuck in the cooler. I chose not to drain it.)

Locate the low pressure line. This is the line with a rubber hose with a clamp attached to a hard line. Using a vice grip, lock the clamp down and move it to the right of the tube. Now is also a good time to position the drain pan and pull the rubber hose off the hard line. Opening the reservoir will help speed up the draining process. Also the low pressure line attachment at the steering rack was hard to access, so I left this rubber hose detached. See picture below for reference.

Step 13: Before we tackle the high pressure line fitting at the steering rack, we will need to break some zip ties. Following the low pressure line that we just drained towards the steering rack, touch to feel for any zip ties. Break the zip ties as you go along. There is one section of the line that is taped together, one that is zip tied and one that is a zip tie clip (I could not loosen this one, so i just cut through the zip tie).

Step 14. You will now want to move over to to the driver's side wheel well. You will now remove the bolt highlighted in the picture below from the lower joint of the steering column assembly.

Step 15. Going back under the car, we'll now loosen the high pressure fitting (see image below) to the steering rack. Now is a great time to move the drain pan under this area. You will have some PS fluid in the lines drain through. Be careful with the end of the fitting as not to damage it. Also note there is a rubber o-ring at the end of the hard line, remove it. It could actually be stuck inside the threading of the steering rack as well.

Note: The low pressure line was hard to tackle from both the driver's side wheel and from under the car. So i left it attached to the power steering, but left the hard line to the rubber hose detached that we drained from in step 12.

Step 16. Now comes the fun part, dropping the power steering rack. Note the rack is heavy and it will fall and could damage the hard line end for the high pressure side. Its best to have a buddy or something to support the steering rack as you unbolt it from the frame.

There are 4 bolts holding in in. One set goes through the power steering mounting holes to the body. One goes directly through the plate to the body. Its best to work the outside ones first. You can break it loose without having to locate the nut, but you will need to reach your hand above the frame and hold the 19mm nut to fully undo the lower bolt. (See the image below). Once the outer bolts are removed, you can remove the inner bolts.

Since the low pressure line is attached, you will have to rotate the power steering to fully drop it. Again make sure to be careful with the hard lines for the high pressure lines.

Step 17: Grab yourself a beer. The hard part is done with!

11-03-2017, 08:25 PM	#1 (permalink)
rambunctious Base Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: in the cowboys stadium Posts: 183 Drives: your mom crazy.. Rep Power: 14	[DIY] Power Steering Rack Replacement Alright, so recently my power steering rack start leaking from one of the boots and I needed to replacement. Couldn't find any online sources that showed how to do it, but i was able to tackle it over the course of 3 days after work by looking at the service manual. will update over the course of next week as i group pictures and recollect everything I did. Tools Needed: Turkey baster or syringe with a hose end Steering Wheel Holder (https://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-6640...dp/B0002UNRB2/) 2lb hammer Large needle nose plier 10mm socket 15mm socket 17mm socket 17mm wrench 19mm socket 19mm wrench Drain pan Vice grips Breaker Bar or Impact Gun (helps breaks bolts easier) Blue Loctite Torque wrench Replacement Parts: New Power Steering Rack (note there is a difference between the manual & automatic version) - I chose to buy mine refurbished online. You can pick up a used for cheaper. New Tie Rod ends (if worn or you can reuse the existing ones) Cotter Pin (Link) Part Number: 4932503E0A - PORT ASSY-DRAIN,POWER STEERING Part Number: 4974501E00 - SEAL-O RING Dextron VI - ATF 1 Qt Hopefully this will help out some folks: Step 1: Try to put the steering wheel as straight as possible and then use the steering wheel holder to keep it in place. Step 2: Open up the Power Steering Reservoir and try to pull out all the fluid using a turkey baster or other removal tool Step 3: Loosen up any wheel locks and loosen up any lug nuts. Step 4: Jack up your car. Step 5: Remove front plastic splash guard. Step 6: Remove tie rods linkage by first removing the cotter pin (#1 in the diagram below) on top of the castle nut. I used a needle nose plier to unwrap the the cotter pin and whole lot of pulling Step 7: Break loose the castlenut (#3 in the image above) with a 17mm socket (i believe its a 17mm socket). Step 8: Now you have the get the tie rod out of the knuckle. There are two ways to go about this: a) Spin the castle nut to the top of the tie rod bolt and using your 2lb hammer pound it from the top down b) Hit the steering knuckle as highlighted in the picture below. I found this method to be the fastest. Step 9: Now is also a good time to remove the tie rod locking nut at the end. If you are replacing the tie rods with new tie rods, then you can skip this step. Go ahead and put the tie rod end back into the knuckle and loosely tighten with the castle nut. Then proceed to break loose the tie rod locking nut. Its much easier to break it loose now, than it is to break it loose later. Step 10: Remove the suspension member stay held on by 8 bolts. Note some of them have washers, so be careful to catch them as they fall. See the image below for a picture of this. Step 11: Before we proceed to drain the power steering line, we are going to need to unclip the power steering harness from the plug. It should be attached towards the front of the frame, also in front of the steering rack. Step 12: Draining the power steering from the rest of the lines. (Note: There will some fluid stuck in the cooler. I chose not to drain it.) Locate the low pressure line. This is the line with a rubber hose with a clamp attached to a hard line. Using a vice grip, lock the clamp down and move it to the right of the tube. Now is also a good time to position the drain pan and pull the rubber hose off the hard line. Opening the reservoir will help speed up the draining process. Also the low pressure line attachment at the steering rack was hard to access, so I left this rubber hose detached. See picture below for reference. Step 13: Before we tackle the high pressure line fitting at the steering rack, we will need to break some zip ties. Following the low pressure line that we just drained towards the steering rack, touch to feel for any zip ties. Break the zip ties as you go along. There is one section of the line that is taped together, one that is zip tied and one that is a zip tie clip (I could not loosen this one, so i just cut through the zip tie). Step 14. You will now want to move over to to the driver's side wheel well. You will now remove the bolt highlighted in the picture below from the lower joint of the steering column assembly. Step 15. Going back under the car, we'll now loosen the high pressure fitting (see image below) to the steering rack. Now is a great time to move the drain pan under this area. You will have some PS fluid in the lines drain through. Be careful with the end of the fitting as not to damage it. Also note there is a rubber o-ring at the end of the hard line, remove it. It could actually be stuck inside the threading of the steering rack as well. Note: The low pressure line was hard to tackle from both the driver's side wheel and from under the car. So i left it attached to the power steering, but left the hard line to the rubber hose detached that we drained from in step 12. Step 16. Now comes the fun part, dropping the power steering rack. Note the rack is heavy and it will fall and could damage the hard line end for the high pressure side. Its best to have a buddy or something to support the steering rack as you unbolt it from the frame. There are 4 bolts holding in in. One set goes through the power steering mounting holes to the body. One goes directly through the plate to the body. Its best to work the outside ones first. You can break it loose without having to locate the nut, but you will need to reach your hand above the frame and hold the 19mm nut to fully undo the lower bolt. (See the image below). Once the outer bolts are removed, you can remove the inner bolts. Since the low pressure line is attached, you will have to rotate the power steering to fully drop it. Again make sure to be careful with the hard lines for the high pressure lines. Step 17: Grab yourself a beer. The hard part is done with! Last edited by rambunctious; 11-09-2017 at 09:51 PM.