Nissan 370Z Forum - View Single Post

370z1 · 08-01-2017, 07:03 PM

----------SOLD----------SOLD----------SOLD----------SOLD----------
Hey Guys,
The H&R Spacers have been SOLD. THANK YOU all for your PM's. PM and TEXT sent to buyer acknowledging that Payment was received via PayPal today 08/01/2017. I will send PM (Private Message) and Text Message to the new owner after they ship tomorrow 08/02/2017.

To the NEW owner:
"THANK YOU" for your purchase, I know you will enjoy these, they give the Z a wider stance and an aggressive look (IMHO). I have the same set myself in the rears and I love them plus the pushed out wheels (to me) make it look more natural even with the fenders. You don't have to worry about mounting them, they are very easy but just plan on taking 2 hours, getting the shorter bolt out is where the time gets spent, a hammer and patients. after to get the bolts replaced the HUBCENTRIC spacer fits perfectly onto the hub and as you slowly tighten down the lug nuts in a "X" pattern the hubcentric spacers are formed ie: tapered so it will seat perfectly so you can't screw it up, meaning the spacer will be evenly spaced around the hub and the lug bolt and their holes will have equal space around them so the lug nuts won't become squeezed. I have had my 20mm H&R spacers on the rear's now for over 6 years and I have never had any issues. Only one thing worth mentioning, some tire/wheel places like the National Chain Stores (you know the ones) will NOT work on my Wheels or Tires (if they are on the car) because their company policy says that wheel spacers are a liability. So I just use local smaller shops or take the wheels off put in truck and take them to them which happens more then I prefer because some shops have trouble lifting my car because it is too low. Even their low profile floor jack which I believe is only 1.5 inches doesn't fit, so you know the tricks, drive up onto a 2x4 then get the floor jack under, yada, yada, yada...They can't get it onto the ramps without damaging it but the smaller shops are always willing to find a solution, anyway that has been my experience, just an FYI.

JUST REMEMBER TO TORQUE THE LUG BOLT TO SPECIFICATION AND REMEMBER TO CHECK THEM A COUPLE TIMES THE FIRST TWO WEEKS AFTER INSTALATION. YOU WON'T NEED TO DO THIS FOREVER MEANING EVERYTIME THE WHEELS GET WORKED ON, IT IS MORE IMPORTANT YOU DO THIS ON THE FIRST INSTALL AND THE NEXT TIME THE WHEELS COME OFF BECAUSE IT LETS THEM SETTLE INTO PLACE. FOR EXAMPLE NOW IF MY WHEELS COME OFF I DON'T BOTHER CHECKING THE TORQUE SEVERAL TIMES IN THE FOLLOWING 2-5 DAYS BECAUSE THEY HOLD THEIR TIGHTNESS "BUT" IN THE BEGINING THEY DID LOOSEN BY A SMALL AMOUNT AND IF THEY HAD GON UNCHECJED I COULD HAVE LOST A LUG NUT. AND BY LOOSE I MEAN A HALF TO A FULL TURN BY DAY 3. BECAREFUL NOT TO OVER TOURQUE, THE H&R REPLACEMENT LUG BOLTS ARE MADE OF A LIGHTER ALLOY PROBABLY MOSTLY ALUMINUM SO THE THREADS CAN BE STRIPP (IF) OVER TIGHTENED TOO MUCH. FIND OUT THE PROPER TORQUE VALUES (SORRY) I CAN'T RECALL THE EXACT FOOT POUNDS BUT I BELIEVE H&R LISTS THE TORQUE VALUE ON THEIR WEBSITE SOME PLACE, BECAUSE I REMEMBER LOOKING FOR IT YEARS BACK. I BELIEVE THE TORQUE VALUES CHANGE A LITTLE BETWEEN SPACER MODELS IE: 10MM, 15MM, 20MM ALL THE WAY TO 25MM. BE SURE WHEN YOU PUT THE NEW LUG BOLTS IN YOU ALIGHN THEIR GROOVES TO THE GROOVES IN THE HUB HOLES, WHAT I DID WAS AFTER TAKING THE OLD LUG BOLT OUT THEN (BY HAND) GENTLY PUT THE NEW LUG BOLT INTO THE HOLE AS FAR AS IT WILL GO ADD A LITTLE PRESSURE AND BEGIN TO TWIST/TURN IT AND IT SHOULD CATCH VERY LITTLE AND IT WILL PREVENT YOU FROM BEING ABLE TO CONTINUE SPINNING THE BOLT. THEN GENTLY HAMMER IT THE START ITS PATH IMPACT THE HEAD HARD ENOUGH SO IT WON'T FALLOUT BY TSELF BUT IT ALSO CAN BE REMOVED IF NEEDED. IF ALL LOOKS GOOD FROM BOTH SIDES (FRONT AND BACK OF LUG BOLT) THEN WITH A STEADY HAND BEGIN TO DRIVE IT IN. MINE DID NOT GO IN EASY AND BECAUSE YOU DON'T HAVE MUCH ROOM IT WILL BE VERY DIFFICULT TO STRIKE THE HEAD OF THE LUG BOLT EVENLY (STRAIGHT ON) WHICH COULD CAUSE PROBLEMS. I PERSONALLY USED A 5 POUND SHORT HANDLE SLEDGE HAMMER BECAUSE OF THE LIMITED THROW. A HEAVY HAMMER HELPED ME SO MUCH MORE THEN A STANDARD HAMMER. THERE ARE OTHER WAYS THE DRIVE THESE BOLTS IN AND BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT TO DO IT I ADVISE YOU TO SEARCH THIS FORUM ON DIY SPACER INSTALLATIONS TO SEE HOW CREATIVE OTHER FOLKS GOT AND SEE WHAT METHODS THEY USED. I READ SOMEWHERE THAT SOMEONE USED A C-CLAMP TO PULL THE BOLTS INTO PLACE INSTEAD OF USING A HAMMER SO I AM SURE THERE ARE A FEW WAYS TO SKIN A CAT AND IF YOU FIND OUT WHAT HAS WORKED BEST FOR OTHERS MAY BE THE BEST WAY TO TRY YOURSELF. ADDING SOME GREASE TO THE LUG BOLTS WILL ALSO HELP GET THEM TO SLIDE IN BETTER, IE: MOTOR OIL, VASOLINE, WD-40, ANY LUBRICANT YOU HAVE AVAILABLE TO YOU THAT DOES THE TRICK.

WHEN I DID MINE I REMOVED THE CALIPERS FROM THE ROTOR BUT I DID NOT DISCONECT THEM SO I DID NOT HAVE TO BLEED THE BRAKE LINES SO IF YOU DO IT THIS WAY GET SOME STRING, OR WIRE HANGERS OR WHATEVER TO SUSPEND THE CALIPER AS NOT TO STRESS THE BRAKE LINE AND WATCH THOSE SWINGS, IT IS VERY EASY TO HIT SOMETHING YOU ARE NOT INTENDING TO HIT. I LIKED THE 5 LB SLEDGE HAMMER BECAUSE IT HAS A LARGE FACE AND IT IS EASY TO STRIKE THE HEAD.

These spacers are designed for your car, the lug bolt they provide are compatible with the factory lug bolts and all the holes line up perfectly. don't let those chain tire shops scare you into thinking a wheel could snap off while you are driving down the road, I could not believe the stupid crap the guy was telling me about how the lug bolt won't be able to support the weight/pressure of the wheel being pushed out that far and all the other crap in hopes I would disregard my ambition of installing spacers so they could get my business but because their policy won't allow them to work on cars with spacers they lost my business of buying 4 wheels and 4 tires from them which was an easy $3,200 bucks lost which I am glad because I found the wheels I liked and the tires too for cheaper then what they were offering. They don't try to scare you because they are concerned for your safety, they try to convince you because they know if you do want to add spacers they will not be able to keep you as a customer because of their own ridiculous policies. Anyway IMHO that is... Always keeps your old factory lug bolts/nuts in case you need them and measure the distance of where you wheel/tire sits today and see where it will end up based on the distance of the spacer so you have an idea of where it will end up.

HOPE THIS IS HELPFUL

My rear wheels are made by "MRR", "GT-1", "20x10", and the Rear Tires are Hankook's V12's 305/35/20 and the car has been lowered by "0.9" inches in the Front and by "0.8" inches in the rear and there is no rubbing or any touching, no vibration or any issues. I hope you enjoy these as much as I do. I don't have spacers in the front because the wheels in the front are wide enough and are even with the fenders. Front wheels are MRR, GT-1 20x9.5 and Tires are 255/30/20.

Kind Regards,
370Z1
----------SOLD----------SOLD----------SOLD----------SOLD----------

08-01-2017, 07:03 PM	#12 (permalink)
370z1 Base Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: San Diego CA Posts: 105 Drives: 2011 370Z Stillen SC Rep Power: 74	----------SOLD----------SOLD----------SOLD----------SOLD---------- Hey Guys, The H&R Spacers have been SOLD. THANK YOU all for your PM's. PM and TEXT sent to buyer acknowledging that Payment was received via PayPal today 08/01/2017. I will send PM (Private Message) and Text Message to the new owner after they ship tomorrow 08/02/2017. To the NEW owner: "THANK YOU" for your purchase, I know you will enjoy these, they give the Z a wider stance and an aggressive look (IMHO). I have the same set myself in the rears and I love them plus the pushed out wheels (to me) make it look more natural even with the fenders. You don't have to worry about mounting them, they are very easy but just plan on taking 2 hours, getting the shorter bolt out is where the time gets spent, a hammer and patients. after to get the bolts replaced the HUBCENTRIC spacer fits perfectly onto the hub and as you slowly tighten down the lug nuts in a "X" pattern the hubcentric spacers are formed ie: tapered so it will seat perfectly so you can't screw it up, meaning the spacer will be evenly spaced around the hub and the lug bolt and their holes will have equal space around them so the lug nuts won't become squeezed. I have had my 20mm H&R spacers on the rear's now for over 6 years and I have never had any issues. Only one thing worth mentioning, some tire/wheel places like the National Chain Stores (you know the ones) will NOT work on my Wheels or Tires (if they are on the car) because their company policy says that wheel spacers are a liability. So I just use local smaller shops or take the wheels off put in truck and take them to them which happens more then I prefer because some shops have trouble lifting my car because it is too low. Even their low profile floor jack which I believe is only 1.5 inches doesn't fit, so you know the tricks, drive up onto a 2x4 then get the floor jack under, yada, yada, yada...They can't get it onto the ramps without damaging it but the smaller shops are always willing to find a solution, anyway that has been my experience, just an FYI. JUST REMEMBER TO TORQUE THE LUG BOLT TO SPECIFICATION AND REMEMBER TO CHECK THEM A COUPLE TIMES THE FIRST TWO WEEKS AFTER INSTALATION. YOU WON'T NEED TO DO THIS FOREVER MEANING EVERYTIME THE WHEELS GET WORKED ON, IT IS MORE IMPORTANT YOU DO THIS ON THE FIRST INSTALL AND THE NEXT TIME THE WHEELS COME OFF BECAUSE IT LETS THEM SETTLE INTO PLACE. FOR EXAMPLE NOW IF MY WHEELS COME OFF I DON'T BOTHER CHECKING THE TORQUE SEVERAL TIMES IN THE FOLLOWING 2-5 DAYS BECAUSE THEY HOLD THEIR TIGHTNESS "BUT" IN THE BEGINING THEY DID LOOSEN BY A SMALL AMOUNT AND IF THEY HAD GON UNCHECJED I COULD HAVE LOST A LUG NUT. AND BY LOOSE I MEAN A HALF TO A FULL TURN BY DAY 3. BECAREFUL NOT TO OVER TOURQUE, THE H&R REPLACEMENT LUG BOLTS ARE MADE OF A LIGHTER ALLOY PROBABLY MOSTLY ALUMINUM SO THE THREADS CAN BE STRIPP (IF) OVER TIGHTENED TOO MUCH. FIND OUT THE PROPER TORQUE VALUES (SORRY) I CAN'T RECALL THE EXACT FOOT POUNDS BUT I BELIEVE H&R LISTS THE TORQUE VALUE ON THEIR WEBSITE SOME PLACE, BECAUSE I REMEMBER LOOKING FOR IT YEARS BACK. I BELIEVE THE TORQUE VALUES CHANGE A LITTLE BETWEEN SPACER MODELS IE: 10MM, 15MM, 20MM ALL THE WAY TO 25MM. BE SURE WHEN YOU PUT THE NEW LUG BOLTS IN YOU ALIGHN THEIR GROOVES TO THE GROOVES IN THE HUB HOLES, WHAT I DID WAS AFTER TAKING THE OLD LUG BOLT OUT THEN (BY HAND) GENTLY PUT THE NEW LUG BOLT INTO THE HOLE AS FAR AS IT WILL GO ADD A LITTLE PRESSURE AND BEGIN TO TWIST/TURN IT AND IT SHOULD CATCH VERY LITTLE AND IT WILL PREVENT YOU FROM BEING ABLE TO CONTINUE SPINNING THE BOLT. THEN GENTLY HAMMER IT THE START ITS PATH IMPACT THE HEAD HARD ENOUGH SO IT WON'T FALLOUT BY TSELF BUT IT ALSO CAN BE REMOVED IF NEEDED. IF ALL LOOKS GOOD FROM BOTH SIDES (FRONT AND BACK OF LUG BOLT) THEN WITH A STEADY HAND BEGIN TO DRIVE IT IN. MINE DID NOT GO IN EASY AND BECAUSE YOU DON'T HAVE MUCH ROOM IT WILL BE VERY DIFFICULT TO STRIKE THE HEAD OF THE LUG BOLT EVENLY (STRAIGHT ON) WHICH COULD CAUSE PROBLEMS. I PERSONALLY USED A 5 POUND SHORT HANDLE SLEDGE HAMMER BECAUSE OF THE LIMITED THROW. A HEAVY HAMMER HELPED ME SO MUCH MORE THEN A STANDARD HAMMER. THERE ARE OTHER WAYS THE DRIVE THESE BOLTS IN AND BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT TO DO IT I ADVISE YOU TO SEARCH THIS FORUM ON DIY SPACER INSTALLATIONS TO SEE HOW CREATIVE OTHER FOLKS GOT AND SEE WHAT METHODS THEY USED. I READ SOMEWHERE THAT SOMEONE USED A C-CLAMP TO PULL THE BOLTS INTO PLACE INSTEAD OF USING A HAMMER SO I AM SURE THERE ARE A FEW WAYS TO SKIN A CAT AND IF YOU FIND OUT WHAT HAS WORKED BEST FOR OTHERS MAY BE THE BEST WAY TO TRY YOURSELF. ADDING SOME GREASE TO THE LUG BOLTS WILL ALSO HELP GET THEM TO SLIDE IN BETTER, IE: MOTOR OIL, VASOLINE, WD-40, ANY LUBRICANT YOU HAVE AVAILABLE TO YOU THAT DOES THE TRICK. WHEN I DID MINE I REMOVED THE CALIPERS FROM THE ROTOR BUT I DID NOT DISCONECT THEM SO I DID NOT HAVE TO BLEED THE BRAKE LINES SO IF YOU DO IT THIS WAY GET SOME STRING, OR WIRE HANGERS OR WHATEVER TO SUSPEND THE CALIPER AS NOT TO STRESS THE BRAKE LINE AND WATCH THOSE SWINGS, IT IS VERY EASY TO HIT SOMETHING YOU ARE NOT INTENDING TO HIT. I LIKED THE 5 LB SLEDGE HAMMER BECAUSE IT HAS A LARGE FACE AND IT IS EASY TO STRIKE THE HEAD. These spacers are designed for your car, the lug bolt they provide are compatible with the factory lug bolts and all the holes line up perfectly. don't let those chain tire shops scare you into thinking a wheel could snap off while you are driving down the road, I could not believe the stupid crap the guy was telling me about how the lug bolt won't be able to support the weight/pressure of the wheel being pushed out that far and all the other crap in hopes I would disregard my ambition of installing spacers so they could get my business but because their policy won't allow them to work on cars with spacers they lost my business of buying 4 wheels and 4 tires from them which was an easy $3,200 bucks lost which I am glad because I found the wheels I liked and the tires too for cheaper then what they were offering. They don't try to scare you because they are concerned for your safety, they try to convince you because they know if you do want to add spacers they will not be able to keep you as a customer because of their own ridiculous policies. Anyway IMHO that is... Always keeps your old factory lug bolts/nuts in case you need them and measure the distance of where you wheel/tire sits today and see where it will end up based on the distance of the spacer so you have an idea of where it will end up. HOPE THIS IS HELPFUL My rear wheels are made by "MRR", "GT-1", "20x10", and the Rear Tires are Hankook's V12's 305/35/20 and the car has been lowered by "0.9" inches in the Front and by "0.8" inches in the rear and there is no rubbing or any touching, no vibration or any issues. I hope you enjoy these as much as I do. I don't have spacers in the front because the wheels in the front are wide enough and are even with the fenders. Front wheels are MRR, GT-1 20x9.5 and Tires are 255/30/20. Kind Regards, 370Z1 ----------SOLD----------SOLD----------SOLD----------SOLD---------- Last edited by 370z1; 08-02-2017 at 03:25 AM.