It's been a while since I replaced my stock brake lines with the Goodridge SS lines, but here's what I can recall:
Make sure you have the right Goodridge SS kit. The brake line configuration changed in mid to late 2012. I was initially sent the wrong kit. Check to make sure you have the right kit before you begin.
Use flare nut wrenches when removing and installing the lines. They will prevent the nuts from being rounded. IIRC some of the stock fittings were quite tight. Don't over-torque the new lines or you'll run the risk of stripping the fittings.
Make sure that you route the new lines so that they don't rub against any of the suspension components. At each wheel, move the brake rotor fully inward and outward to ensure that the lines are free from any obstructions.
I didn't worry about the loss of brake fluid when removing the stock lines. I simply placed a catch basin under each line and collected any fluid that drained out and later discarded it. Any air introduced into the system will be removed when the system is bled ... especially if you're using a Motive bleeder. In response to your question, change the lines, make sure all of the fittings are snug, and then bleed the system.
I found the adapter cap that comes with the Motive bleeder was difficult to get on and off of the brake fluid reservoir. It can be quite tricky. I ended up ordering the universal adapter kit, which I find is simple to use and, as the name implies, can be used on any vehicle.
There is a sequence for bleeding the system. It's outlined in the FSM. I think it's passenger rear - driver front - driver rear -passenger front. Apparently, there is also a sequence in terms of the outer and inner bleeder valves ... but I can't remember which one should be bled first. Someone else can chime in. Also, don't over-torque the bleeder valves.
That's about it for now. If I think of anything else, I'll add it later. Trust this helps!
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