Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty
I do both track and DD the Z. I have my front settings at -2.0 camber, +7 caster, and 1/32" in toe. The rear is set at 1.75 camber, and 1/132" in toe. The rear suspension has one hellish camber curve. The more it squats, the more -camber it gets. The -3 rear camber you mention is a bit much for the street. The -1.5 to -1.7 would be about perfect for you. You do want some toe in on both front and rear. Zero toe in the rear will give you a condition called snap-oversteer. Ok for the track, scarier then hell on the street. It's when the rear just snaps out faster then you can think. It doesn't drift out like you think it should. It's great for getting the car to rotate in the middle of the turn. Zero toe, you loose stabilize for steering quickness.
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Okay, so a little toe in front and rear.
Due to the 1.5" drop, I'm pretty much locked in to a -2 -ish camber in the front which shouldn't be bad on the tires. I was running -2.6 on my '91 Miata with no wear issues, and it gripped like a mother!
I think caster is increased some as well went lowered, but not sure. Again, I'm pretty much locked in to whatever the drop gives me until I pony up the cash for some adjustable UCA's.
In the rear, keep things around the -1.5 to -1.7 should be the target. That will help keep the sidewalls a little further away from the wheel well also.
Again, I'm sure all of this will be determined by the performance shop next week.
And yes, I know about snap oversteer. It's a nasty thing if you don't know how to react to it, and I don't.
One last thing which kind of isn't related, and I'm pretty sure I already know the answer, but I plan on getting a Hotchkis front sway in the very near future. Swapping out the stocker for the Hotchkis, that won't mess up the alignment, will it?
I don't think it will, but just wanted to ask.
Thanks a bunch for all of the great info, Rusty! That's the kind of help I was looking for from the beginning.
And just for fun...
