Fuel pump gremlin:
The relay clicks and voltage (~12V) is present at the connector into the gas tank. Relay is only energized for about two seconds. Pump never sounds like it's running, even during the ~2 sec that voltage is present.
Ground wire is connected to a good ground, as verified by checking resistance to the negative terminal of my sub amplifier (<0.5 ohms).
Next step is to direct connect the fuel pump connector to the battery momentarily to determine if it's the power circuit to the pump or the wiring internal to the fuel tank.
Crank pulley:
Bolt came off surprisingly easy. I braced the crank pulley against the engine and gronked on the bolt to break it free. Oil came out of the bolt hole, which I assume is OK.
New AMS lightweight crank pulley is installed and torqued to 30 ft-lbs plus ~90 degrees.
Coolant overflow relocation:
I think the overflow bottle is different from the Stillen supplied one. If you look at the pictures, I'm curious as to how to route the coolant hose that used to be attached to the bottom of the stock reservoir to the bottom of the new reservoir. I'm thinking that I'm gonna grab some tubing from Autozone and go from there.
1/4 inch boost line:
I've gotta grab some tubing for this and another T-fitting to route manifold pressure to the boost meter as well as the fuel regulator. How did you guys make this work? The Prosport tubing does not take to stretching well and there is no supplied tubing to connect the fuel pressure regulator to the manifold...
I had to mount the SC to the engine for posterity's sake... Nothing is tightened down, I just wanted to see what the end result would look similar to haha.
I went through 3 Dremel cutting wheels to clear the pinch weld for the flipped volute. I'll verify clearance once I'm ready to tighten down.
Pictures Link:
https://goo.gl/photos/6wexurgWYzweWzYw7