Quote:
Originally Posted by JenovaI
I just put SPL front camber and rear camber/toe arms on my z and need an alignment. I currently have KW v3 at max height with settings all in the middle. Stillen sways, stiff rear middle front. Rears are pilot super sport 325/30/19 front are RS3 245/40/19. quaife torsen LSD.
I'm supercharged at 479hp to the rear wheels and my biggest annoyance is how fast I lose traction when I hit the throttle so I'm hoping to focus my alignment specs on that. I do spirited daily driving and canyon runs, no track time yet.
After research I feel like i should go:
FRONT -1.5 camber 0 toe 5.17 caster
REAR -1.8 camber, 1/32" R+ 1/32" L toe in (so like .01 degree toe in total)
Gomer's suggestions makes me think:
FRONT -2 camber 0 toe 5.17 caster
REAR -1.2 camber, 1/32" R+ 1/32" L toe in (so like .01 degree toe in total)
i THINK this is the best I can do for launch and corner traction without going through tires like crazy. Anyone have suggestions otherwise?
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I think you have some mis-matched expectations here .............
480whp is a tough ask for any rubber ........... and there are a bunch of compromises to consider.
By standing the rear tyre up (less camber) you flatten the tread face to maximise grip potential, BUT the torque associated with 480rwhp is going to torture the tyre in lower gears (remember, a gearbox is a torque multiplier in lower gears ....).
When you launch the car, it will squat at the rear which induces more camber which lessens the size of the contact patch .........
BUT
when you tip it into a corner, the car rolls and you need some rear camber to ensure that the car does not fall-over on the outside tyre and reduce the contact patch size because the inside of the outside rear tyre becomes unweighted ...
So, before being prescriptive, consider whether you are asking seeking a unicorn ..... because the best solution might be to feather the throttle in low gears .... laying two black lines all the time becomes expensive in the end.
Rather than thinking that suspension alignment is the "fix", you need to re-think objectives because some solutions - like standing the rear tyres up some more - actually hurt other areas - like cornering grip.
The answer will be a combination because it is a system fix .... and by that I mean
1. Alignment to OEM specs as a starter so the car will still corner (maybe go "more" neg at the front to promote healthy turn-in
2. Sticky tyres that you replace regularly (rear at least)
3. Moderate your throttle inputs at low speeds/gears (or invest in an aftermarket Traction Control system which aligns torque to available grip)
4. Think about softening the rear in roll (no or softer rear bar) and giving the car a little less bump stiffness on the rear shocks to promote compliance to improve grip and a bit less rebound at the front to let more weight transfer to the rear. This is a dark art and depends on adjustable shocks. You "could" also look at less rear spring as a stiff rear spring does not promote rear grip
For point 4, you need to test and if this is not something you are comfortable doing, then an aftermarket TC system is the best option.