Ventruck

Finally got mine installed...pretty much. I could only get the first two bolts in. The furthest one is just has too many obstructions for me to work around. Basically should be enough, as the brace sits flush on the curved profile of the chassis so it's not like there's a serious case of leverage against the bolts when the master cylinder pushes back.

My procedure/recommendations (not entirely DIY thread worthy; can't post pics):
1. Remove the cover and surrounding of the brake compartment per Z1's instructions. Also remove the brake booster hose at the booster end and angle it away (rest it on the silver line.. You need every bit of space.

2. Prepare: Ratchet tool + 6" head extension + swivel + 5mm Allen bit with painter's tape. Place the bolt on and it should stick on that bit pretty snugly. I went with a 3/8" drive because it seemed to work during my tool test routing, but would recommend to go with a 1/4" drive so there's more wiggle room.

I don't think a uniball bit is actually all that necessary. Regular cut aligned just fine for me, and probably better when applying torque. I don't recommend a magnetic tip, because you may end up getting stuck to the hard lines and anything else in there.

Also prepare the brace with the bolt and jam nut. Screw that as far in as you can (don't actually tighten, though). Again, it allows for more movement during the install.

3. Practice how you'll feed the tool+bolt and brace separately. Each to their own with fingers. I fed my tool between the hard lines, with my fingers able to hold the swivel head at an angle as I'd feed it into the brace hole.

4. I targeted the closest bolt (towards the driver fender) hole first because it was easiest to see the bolt feed into the hole. Have the bolt feed through the brace hole, then the threaded chassis hole.

This is pretty much key step. Much easier said than done for almost anyone. My 3/8" drive swivel head had me working at different angles with each turn since it has little space to rotate.

5. Once you successfully fed in that bolt, thread in only about half way so the brace can be re-positioned, then go for threading into the middle bolt hole. Same path as I described before. This should be way easier, but my tool setup was hitting the brake booster studs so I had to keep working around until I got a few turns in.

6. Adjust bolt+jam nut against master. Make sure it's pretty snug on there before working the jam nut. My final position was very similar to what was in Z1's instructions. If you don't have a slim enough wrench, finger tight should work. Bolt isn't going to be spinning when pressed against the master. If you could pull out the booster hose (without destroying it), you could definitely tighten the jam nut well enough. That being said, don't forget to put put the hose back in.

Most of my time was spent sorting out my tool and feed strategy. Had I known what would work off the bat, yeah, it is a 30min job or even less. Would've been smoother with lower profile tools.

Edit: Flexible hose approach as suggested before could be an idea. Would've tried it if I was still unsuccessful. There are those bendable driver extensions but I thought the local offerings (as in Home Depot/Husky) were too stiff to actually make the tight turns needed. That'd probably require feeding behind the hard lines.

I know there's 90 degree adapters, which could be awesome, or just not fit in there either.
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As far as perception goes, I didn't have a second person to take a look at the before/after movement of the master, but I'd expect it to be the case as this pretty much happens with any other car's hydraulic brake setup.

Careful way to put it is that the brace doesn't necessarily help with response. Initial bite still happens at the same point for me (as I'd expect), but the brace limited the softening feel when doing legitimate extended, hard braking (50+% application) from higher speeds. There is more noticeable shudder, but I believe that's from the rotors/pads. If anything it's probably telling that the pedal force application is more consistently linear, with the brace installed.

So you can say the response at that point — and perhaps the braking performance overall — is better, but I don't think the mod is entirely worth it for the street unless you really start doing things you shouldn't. Like at most, you'd probably appreciate it during some panic braking on the highway.

I'm still wondering what's supposed to occupy those threaded holes in the chassis otherwise.