Quote:
Originally Posted by Ape Factory
Ah ok that set off the lightbulb, much appreciated. I may rotate the tires side to side and go in on Monday and have them adjust front toe. I don't want to be into the cord before I can order new tires.
So I could quite possibly get away with that camber setting and proper toe. And I wouldn't need front control arms either, correct? Money not spent where it isn't needed is a good thing.
As for the rear diff, I definitely don't want solid bushings. My initial goal was a mild drop and to keep most of the stock suspension due to NVH issues. The difference in NVH between a G37 and a 370Z is pretty stunning. Can't imagine what solid bushings would do! Car is low mileage too, I think I just hit 28K so the stock bushings are good (no wheel hop at all).
Because I have an auto, it's my understanding the Wavetrac won't work due to carrier/ pinion offset or something like that. Now I've heard, and I think read on this very forum, the differentials between manual and automatics are swappable with the need to use a different stub shaft on one side. I've not looked into it in super detail just yet. Since I have an auto IPL, my differential to driveshaft coupler is, I believe, a four bolt as well.
What I don't know is:
-Can I just buy a manual base open diff and use it for the Wavetrac even though I have an auto?
-Will I need a new stub shaft or other mods to make it work?
-Do the differential to driveshaft flange/couplers interchange? Can I simply bolt on a four bolt flange to the open diff three bolt?
I know there's an ultimate differential guide thread on this forum, will look it up again.
I'm guessing it'll run about $1600 installed if I source the pumpkin and do some of the leg work myself. Heck I'm sure I could install the pumpkin myself but I'd leave the diff installation into the carrier for a pro as it's been some time since I did one myself. And I have no time.
I'm still going to run it by the dealership and see if the VLSD is even remotely working as it's still under warranty. I'll turn off the VDC on the way home from work and test things out. I've gotten good at walking riiiight up to it's limit but it'd be great if it would just grip and go instead.
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No reason to go to dealer to have them check the VLSD just jack up the rear the car in neutral with parking brake off and spin one rear wheel, if it feel tight and the other is spinning in same direction then you have LSD. It's a sealed unit and pretty robust so I highly doubt anything is actually wrong with yours.
As for your angles, yea your a bit out from oem and every car is different and I have only had my z with one set of new tires but typically I find anything under -1.5 will have good wear across the tire for most cars. Hell my last rear set wore even and when I went to align with new tires I found out I was at like -2.2 however oem center position is -1.5 so -2 isn't actually too far out from oem on the rear of a z, but -1.5 is pretty much at my comfort level for street use. I guess I would say -1 from oem center will probably be safe for most cars and -.5 to -.75 from center probably ideal for a performance but street focused angle. That would be my opinion and then just monitor the wear pattern.